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1973 Rebuild


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Excellent.

One other thing to double check... I've seen situations where the shank on the aftermarket lug nuts is a little too long and will actually bottom out on the rotor or drum face before the wheel is clamped tight. The problem occurs when the shank is longer than the wheel flange is thick. Yours are probably fine, but you should check that if you haven't already.

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  • 1 month later...

Update:

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So the Subaru dif is mostly done. It needs to be flushed again and I think the cover gasket is leaking, but since I bent the dust shroud on the input flange I’m putting this in storage until I’m in the mood to mess with it again.

It needs to be sitting on the wheels to get that front lock nut torqued to 195 nm, otherwise I’m only going to continue messing up my hard work (see 2nd to last image).

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The diff had been sitting outdoors with no axels and was full of mud. I took it apart to clean it out, inspect it for wear and rust, and replace all the seals and whatnot.

Thankfully it had enough grease on it that everything was peachy.

Edited by Matthew Abate
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  • 1 month later...

So my painter waited until the week before he wants to spray the car to tell me I need a new hood. Anyone have any ideas on where to source one that doesn't need body work? I'm watching a few on eBay that look like they would need filling or welding. And then there are the repros.

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I have an old reproduction hood on my project. It's ok, not great. It needed work to get mounted properly, properly arched and slotted the mounting holes to get it close to lining up.

As for used, have you searched craigslist yet? (searchtempest) Shipping might be an issue but there are usually a few spread out around the country. Rust is an issue on many used ones

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