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1973 Rebuild


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I could really use some help understanding the interior fabric for these cars, and the options for my year in particular (1973).

I started a separate thread about this: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/64974-understanding-original-carpet-interior/

If anyone has good photos of how the sills are supposed to be covered, the differences between the various carpet kits, how the spare tire well is trimmed, etc., I would really appreciate it.

Edited by Matthew Abate
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So, I’ve been collecting random brake parts, and one of the things I grabbed was a 79 ZX master cylinder. I am planning to rebuild it, and I have everything, but the reservoirs look... questionable. They still hold fluid and don’t leak, but they aren’t pretty.

5F81109F-DC22-469D-8252-120B5405A3DD.jpeg

I know it’s a long shot, but what are the chances I can get a NOS pair from someone who’s been hoarding a set in their basement? I actually only need the big one (46090-P6500) because I have a little one that is close to if not exactly the same as the original  (46091-U0502).

Its either that or I reuse these or get some tilting tanks or something.

PS. This is where I got the part numbers: https://parts.bayridgenissan.com/a/Nissan_1979_280ZX/_51504_8122687/BRAKE-MASTER-CYLINDER/S130_US-201101_460A_1.html

Edited by Matthew Abate
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On 1/28/2021 at 6:05 PM, grannyknot said:

These aren't pristine but they are presentable, came off a 72 240, with a Hydrogen Peroxide treatment they might come out a bit whiter.

Thanks, but I want to stick with the ZX-sized tanks. I found a set on eBay and picked them up. They were more than I wanted to spend but I will have them Wednesday, so ¯\_(ツ)_/¯.

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Okay, I was able to accomplish a few things this week:

I received and installed the hatch bracket from @zKars and put the strut in. This made it a lot easier to get the final alignment of the hatch done.

3F3AF854-0E85-44AE-B67B-E7766CCB4065.jpeg

85D7D0D2-956A-42ED-8495-4C21236E198A.jpeg
 

I polished up the storage box handles I got from @7tooZ (photo taken between for comparison)

C9009065-92EF-4717-883C-AF28DBDDCE14.jpeg

 

And I cleaned up the 280ZX master cylinder I got on eBay

803C3164-BD22-4505-BCDC-74B016A2877D.jpeg

8779B9A3-5228-4EAD-8146-F4B86FC16001.jpeg

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I have lots of cleaning on the MC parts to do and various rebuild parts coming in the mail, so that will take a while. I should be able to get the brakes totally finished by the end of February.

Edited by Matthew Abate
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So this is interesting...

The fittings on the bottom of the ZX master cylinder are m16x1.0 to m10x1.0. I am not seeing anyone selling a fitting this size online (mine look like crap) but I also haven’t looked that hard. I’m going to check my 240z MC and see if those are the same thread sizes, but at first glance they are definitively different hex sizes.

Edit: I found them for the Willwood 1” MC, if anyone needs that, but I am pretty sure they are SAE male ends: http://trs-store.mybigcommerce.com/direct-wilwood-master-cylinder-to-datsun-brake-line-fitting/sku

Edited by Matthew Abate
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Got another conundrum:

The after market e-brake cable I got from Z Car Depot is not fitting nicely with the rear caliper kit I also got from Z Car Depot. Funny that, given they market this kit as working with the factory e-brake cable and this cable as working with no mods, but I digress...

The slot for the spring clip is very close to the brace on the cable that makes it clamp to the bracket. Not surprising and I should have expected that.

940BBAE3-B248-4A60-B064-1763552355E2.jpeg

You can see how much thicker the Maxima bracket is above. I’m going to have to cut some new slots for the spring clip. I’m not excited about it but I can do it without screwing it up (I think) if I use hand tools and take my time.

 

Also, the end of the cable with the clevis is binding up in the hook on the caliper. I thought of making some linkage, but that puts the clevis too close to the bracket and it gets bound up.

D73ED4C8-D14F-41CB-97C1-072ADCEC8726.jpeg

I’m thinking I need to squash it so that it fits in there a little better. I’m not stoked about this either.

Edited by Matthew Abate
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Had the same dilemma ended up just grinding  off enough metal so you can use the clip. Haven’t tried this yet but someone in this he past mentioned to flip flop the cables. You have to slip them out of the hangars to do that.

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There might be even more work needed.  Here's a thread from another site.  Derek is a very very capable mechanic.

The impression I get is that the guy at zcardepot has a batch of parts made up and needs to get rid of them before fixing the problems.  He seems unresponsive, in general.   His business is getting big so he probably doesn't need to be.

https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/131360-rear-disk-kit-from-zcar-depot-anyone-using-it/

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So now that my brakes are stalled out again, I am contemplating what to do about my wheel situation. Recap: I have 14x6" Shelby Cal 500 slot mags. They are just ever so slightly too tight to allow the balancing weights to clear the maxima calipers in the back. I bought some low profile balancing weights that are 3MM thick and cleat the Toyota calipers in the front, but the back is still an issue. I am not into the idea of shaving the maxima calipers to accommodate wheels that I have always planned to replace some day.

I'm writing this post mostly to collect my thoughts in one place, but comments and corrections are always welcome:

  • I've seen a range of maximum backspace on a 240Z going from 4 to 4.75 in the front and 4.5 to 5 in the rear
  • Optimal offset for a 240z is 0 in the front to prevent tire scrubbing when steering, regardless of wheel width
  • Maximum tire width to clear the inside of the stock fender is probably 215mm (I have Eibach springs, which have lowered the car 1.5 to 2")
  • 215mm is also the minimum tire width on an 8" wheel
  • Original tire diameter for a 240z was 24.95"
  • I have seen people recommend a 7" wheel width for optimal handling
  • 15" tire selections are getting slim

 

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