Well, I've put 500 miles on my overhaul and it's time for the first oil change. Since I've replaced the cam, I thought I'd get religious about adding ZDDP with each oil change. But surprise, surprise when I get to the auto parts store, there was no ZDDP to be had. Then I spied a bottle with a big "ZINC" on the label.

 

When I got home and read the small print on the label, it said, "contains no Zinc or Phosphorous". Wait, the label does say "ZINC REPLACEMENT".

 

On to the web for a MSDS where the only chemical it lists is "proprietary Polymer Ester".

 

It appears clear and has a viscosity similar to glycerin. The label claims it "will provide complete wear protection for flat tappet cam design engines."

 

Does anyone have experience with this product?

I recommend drinking the stuff: http://www.healthline.com/health/erectile-dysfunction/zinc

Racing oil with zinc complex is still available.  S30Driver posted recently about a sale on Valvoline VR-1 at NAPA.  Post #48.

 

http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/51299-zinc-additives-cam-shaft-or-rocker-wear-and-mileage-a-poll/page-3

 

Pennzoil has one also, GT Performance Racing oil.  Post #24, same thread.

This is my Zinc of choice. http://www.cam-shield.com/

Bonzi Lon

I recommend drinking the stuff: http://www.healthline.com/health/erectile-dysfunction/zinc

Haaaaaa!  Sportin' a ZDDP woody!

Brad Penn oil has zinc.

"I recommend drinking the stuff"

I found it interesting that the symptoms of ingesting too much zinc are identical to those of fume fever. If you've ever burned or welded anything covered in zinc (galvanized) without adequate ventilation, it doesn't take long for the symptoms to appear.

Maybe Jalex from Panama has too much zinc in his engine causing the "shaking, back and forth"?  It has the Zinc Shakes. 

I made myself sick welding on a late model truck one time. Between the zinc and left over paint burning, I felt ill for weeks. Respirator under the hood would have been advisable

Since my new rings are still seating in, I contacted hyper-lube about the suitability of their zinc replacement additive.

 

Believe it or not, I actually got a response on Sunday morning saying it is a fine product to provide EP lubrication during break-in.

 

EP stands for Extreme Pressure. EP lubricants act as a liquid until a certain pressure is reached when it acts like a solid. As soon as the pressure drops, it reverts back to a liquid. The idea is to prevent metal to metal contact and it resultant wear.

 

This sort of contradicts the idea of break-in where the high points are removed.

 

Have I got this wrong?

 

EDIT---

 

OK I just re-read his email where the rep says "post break-in". So how many miles does it take to break-in an L24?

Edited May 31, 20159 yr by djwarner

500mi is a ballpark number often used.

My drag racing buddies in Atlanta used to tell me to drive my first build once around 285 (68 miles), then drive it like you want it to run!