240Z Resto - 01/1970 Car

[grannyknot]

Raff, would a used 72 exhaust manifold help? I have one and the those tubes seem to be in pretty good condition, yours for the asking.

How is that Sharkhide working out?

Chris

[Careless]

Hi Chris,

 

Thanks for the offer. The issue I seem to have with the air galley tube is that it's tough to take them off in good condition. Either the tube nuts round off or they are just plain stuck on there! My machinist tried with the oxy torch and couldn't get them to budge at all. I'll consult with the vehicle owner and see what he would like to do. 

 

The sharkhide seems to be very good. The brighter/shinier the part is, the better it comes out- as it's light sheen matches the underlying shine much easier and it blends in nicely. I will be sharkhiding everything that I've assembled up until now on Sunday. I just did a demo for a friend who was helping me make room in the garage for more Z stuff and after 5 minutes of drying you couldn't tell it was even on the piece of aluminum we put it on, and I did put a nice layer on there. It's like a clear coat without all the issues I've had with clear coat. No heat curing. No yellowing due to UV or age, and no cracking, peeling, or chipping. 

 

It's barely visible, and if you try to scrape it off with something, you end up scraping off aluminum, so it's very thin and self levelling to a degree. I think it will be great. I just need to find something I can wipe it on with that's a bit better than the cotton pads i'm using right now. I need something like cotton baby diaper, as recommended by the manufacturer. If it ends up looking ugly, you can wipe it off with a heavy wipe with any regular solvent, acetone, thinner.  

 

The most important part is to have a uniform finish on the shine/surface of the underlying part, and to then have it clean and free from oils and foreign items. A good quick scrub with a tooth brush only used with brake clean, acetone, or wax/grease remover seems to work best prior to applying, and works well for removing it.

Edited September 4, 2015 by Careless

[grannyknot]

What you need are the micro fiber cloths, they leave no lint and hold a lot of whatever liquid you are using.

I cut them up into 1.5"x1.5" patches for doing touch of paint when I don't want to mask and spray.

Old T-shirts work well too but will leave fibers in the paint sometimes.

[Careless]

What you need are the micro fiber cloths, they leave no lint and hold a lot of whatever liquid you are using.

I cut them up into 1.5"x1.5" patches for doing touch of paint when I don't want to mask and spray.

Old T-shirts work well too but will leave fibers in the paint sometimes.

 

I need to try a white one because I tried a blue one and... it kinda put blue tint on the test piece.

 

 

btw, send me a price for that manifold, i'll come look at it!

[grannyknot]

No price, just drop by and it's yours.

[Careless]

sweeeeeeeeeeeet

[Careless]

does anyone have the order of the small washers/items that go in the following location (purple arrow) on the distributor vacuum advance?

[CanTechZ]

I just looked at mine, and it has only one washer between the spring and the clevis.

I just noticed that the picture you posted has dual points, my setup is original with single points. I have no idea if this makes a difference.

Edited September 11, 2015 by CanTechZ

[Careless]

I'll have to take this one apart again and lay it out , and if you can compare that would be awesome. it is also a single points. I snagged this photo from another site...

 

I know there is more than one washer. unless there is a washer that  goes under the spring on the diaphragm side. But I have a really thin washer, a locking washer that is shaped like clasping end of the clevis, and regular washer, as well as the tube guide that sits in the spring.

Edited September 12, 2015 by Careless

[Careless]

I tried out a black oxide solution, and it seems to work amazing. The little fuel filter bracket/holder that is made of spring steel blackened up back to the original finish, and It looks great with a little bit of penetrating oil rubbed into it.

 

I found that the sharkhide dries to a slightly darker haze than the base metal and then it shines right up with some penetrating oil, so that's the route I will take from here on out for items that I'll be refinishing without painting.

[Careless]

small update for now.

 

I had to take a tiny wire brush (sprout shape) that comes in a dremel kit, and i wire wheeled the entire head like i was drawing on it with a fine tipped marker to get all the aluminum coloured paint off it. It yellows over time and catches all kind of dust and never looks good after the car is driven a couple of times. you can never clean it properly. So i decided to essentially wire wheel the entire head with the motor upside down so that nothing went in the valve train or spark plug pockets, and then brake cleaned the motor while it was upside down so all the shmoo fell to the ground on a garbage bag.

 

 A lot of scrubbing with a tooth brush, half a quart/litre of wax & grease remover, and one can of brake kleen later, and it's looking pretty good. just gotta do the back of the head and two or three small areas, then i'll put the motor back together and think about doing the "datsun overspray" in certain areas. 

Part of me wants to, but part of me wants to make it cleaner than factory.

 

 

 

The parts are coated with sharkhide. It barely changes the look of how it is without it. Just slightly shinier. The valve cover was burnished and was pretty close to the 13,000 mi 1973 240z that was in the same building, but with 40 years of oxidation, so I'd say this is as close as it's gonna get with a uniform finish. The valve cover is NOT polished. It's just a very high sheen burnish. It's the same "surface" as the head as shown in a close up in the second photo, but with added sheen from multiple burnishing passes. A full micropolish is way more mirror like. This is like... a dull aluminum that someone has sprayed a high gloss finish on- but it's actually not coated with a gloss of any kind.

 

 

The pan rail has that brown aviation gasket seal stuff. Is that the preferred sealant to use in conjunction with cork gaskets, or is a slight brush on of RTV a good idea?

Edited September 19, 2015 by Careless

[grannyknot]

http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/52349-sealing-an-oil-pan/

 

That engine looks amazing, great work.