Careless Posted October 8, 2015 Author Share #85 Posted October 8, 2015 (edited) So it seems as though the DUAL POINTS distributors like the one I found a picture of and posted (with the purple arrow) use many more washers to preload the diaphragm. At first I thought this was a modification, but then I saw that a NOS diaphragm on ebay has 3 washers stacked behind the clevis. Then I looked at some photos of "before disassembly" and found there to be less on the single points diaphragm. This is a photo I took of the distributor I am rebuilding. I had it right the way I assembled it, but I rubbed some oil on the actuator and it marred the zinc finish a little, so I will be having that rezinced with the upcoming batch of other goodies. Should be easy with the muriatic bath they usually use for recoats. The order seems to be Diaphragm Body Foam Isolator (on mounting face) Spring Thin Washer (most likely to prevent spring end wear. Thick Washer 1 Thick Washer 2 (same size as 1, although slightly different colour. not sure if different metal) Clevis Lock clip Clevis arm Here's the dual points diaphragm for reference. you can very faintly see the edge of the thin spring wear washer if you zoom/squint/concentrate/holdyourbreathe. Edited October 8, 2015 by Careless Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted October 8, 2015 Author Share #86 Posted October 8, 2015 (edited) Can anyone identify the proper clutch master cylinder? I see the one 2nd to the left seems to have been the only used one. I went ahead and tumbled it to brighten it up, and I can swap the cups over as well as a new clamp. The unit seems to be in good condition, so I cleaned the bore gently and sized up a new o-ring at the local seal supplier. I will also snag a pushrod from another cylinder and use that. There are various differences between all of these units. I found this thread, but not sure what the conclusion on the early units is : http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/50000-early-series-i-240z-clutch-master-cylinder-touching-windshield-washer-bottle/ Edited October 8, 2015 by Careless Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted October 8, 2015 Author Share #87 Posted October 8, 2015 (edited) I wanted to show a trick for plating parts that have blind holes. they cause an issue with plating because they produce what is called "bleed out". it's when wet zinc mixed with muriatic acid pours out of the part after it has been plated and dried because the solution has nowhere to go during the plating process. It causes poor plating, white haze, corrosion, and can even ruin other parts that come in contact with the solution well after they have been cleaned. it essentially does what muriatic acid does to plated parts because that is partly what it is. I seal up the holes with RTV. RTV is generally safe for plating in zinc. TADA! i sealed up the shaft orifice and the breather holes on the underside of the diaphragm. I then removed them with a dental pick. This unit was paint stripped and tumbled. I immediately noticed the copper/orange colour that it had come back in when the carbs were given back to me by ZTherapy. It's understandable that they do not want to futz around with messing these parts up- as I'm sure there aren't too many of the factory ones still around. Well... here's how I did it. More pics for reference: Edited October 8, 2015 by Careless Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted October 8, 2015 Author Share #88 Posted October 8, 2015 Here is what the timing cover looks like after it was sharkhide coated, along with the water pump, and oil pump. I had rebuilt the internals of the oil pump as well. These parts are not polished. They just have a nice impervious shine to them. slightly more dull than clearcoat. If you were to take your timing cover off and look at the back of it which gets covered in clean engine oil all the time, that's basically what these look like in person. really shiny, almost as cast... but not polished. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted October 8, 2015 Author Share #89 Posted October 8, 2015 (edited) I started to assemble the vehicle today. I decided first thing is first... brake lines and brackets. some of the bushings provided were just repainted old dry/cracked bushings. infact, aside from being dirty, the bushing that were taken off the car were in way better condition. I just tumbled them and they came out like brand new rubber. seriously the best investment into this project at this point- the tumbler is easily worth 3 or 4 times its price for anyone who is thinking of doing a lot of this stuff. Get the largest one you can! the isolator on the one large vapor line on the right seems to have the hole in the firewall missing. I can feel the hole there, so the bolt must have broken off. I am going to see if I should drill it from the other side with a slightly undersized bit, and then tap it. I would like to put that bracket there, provided I don't mess up the firewall paint. I've already had to drill out two of those tiny M4 screws because they were just painted over as well. Luckily one came out without much fuss. The other was a bit harder- but now is the time to do it! And I seriously think putting brake lines into old rubber bushings with no help is one of the hardest things I've ever done on a car. I've taken apart complex transmissions and engines and have some race-car building experience and have fabricated competition roll cages and made some interesting things for cars... This was just a chore. The transmission mount and front differential mount really help at keeping the lines up in the air for you when you're trying to figure it all out. Some of the fittings were a little marred in the process of removing the caps I put on there to seal them from plating, but that's to be expected. The threads see some build up and rust from the acid. They should be ok. More pics (and more to come when I get my real camera there). Edited October 8, 2015 by Careless 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted October 8, 2015 Author Share #90 Posted October 8, 2015 http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/52349-sealing-an-oil-pan/ That engine looks amazing, great work. Thanks Chris,More to come! I got almost all of the engine components I need, so sometime next week I'll be doing the final paint touch up, and then putting that back together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmorales-bello Posted October 8, 2015 Share #91 Posted October 8, 2015 I'm amazed at the quality of your build. Fantastic job!David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hardway Posted October 8, 2015 Share #92 Posted October 8, 2015 Great work and attention to detail. I love your pictures, they highlight not only the actual labor but how good the finished product can be if your pay attention to everything and get it right. Keep up the good work!!! I look forward to seeing more updates. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted October 9, 2015 Author Share #93 Posted October 9, 2015 The OE heatshield that goes under the carbs seems to be painted with COLD GALVANIZING paint, (7007), but to be honest, it's too soft for my liking. It scratches to a shiny finish too easily. I was thinking of using high heat manifold primer. Has anyone had good success with that stuff? Colour similarity? I have to replace the one that is on the Ztherapy carbs with the one I took off the car because it must have had the throttle return springs bashed during shipping, and one of the spring tabs at the base of the heat shield is breaking off. I'd rather fix it now, and then tig weld the one I take off and sell it later. Any thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted October 15, 2015 Author Share #94 Posted October 15, 2015 Can anyone identify the proper clutch master cylinder? anyone have any insight to this? can't find the original one that was in the photos provided :-( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grannyknot Posted October 15, 2015 Share #95 Posted October 15, 2015 That NABCO M/C second from the left looks like the one that came on my 03/70 240Z but it had this cap on it. Now someone could have changed it over the years, I don't know, It certainly looked like it had been there for a very long time. I kept the cap, it's yours if you want it. Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted October 16, 2015 Author Share #96 Posted October 16, 2015 (edited) Interesting. That is the only one that looks used, and it is also the one that I cleaned up in the tumbler and replaced the o-rings on, ready to go back together. I'll just swap over the reservoir and i'll come by for the cap sometime!thanks again, Chris. Update to thread:I went to the shop today to sort out some stuff that needs to be cleaned elsewhere, as I don't have a sandblaster big enough. Wondering what I should do with the quarter glass and trim... going to be putting the motor together as much as possible tomorrow, and will be posting pictures of the horn I am refreshing. Will post more pics soon! Edited October 16, 2015 by Careless Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olympianZ
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