240Z Resto - 01/1970 Car

[Careless]

So after waiting for some items to be shipped, and finally getting the right timing cover gaskets (the package i had said L24, but it was clearly for something else... maybe L28) I managed to get that all together with the fresh hardware. new water pump. fresh oil pump. fresh oil pan and gasket.

 

coated the head to prevent corrosion. added the new air gallery tube to the manifold that I painted and heat cured. The hole left from the tube nut that I had to extract seemed to tighten up nice. The pitot tube on the under side of the tube nut seems tight and the nut can't be screwed on anymore. So on monday I put the carbs and manifold on.

 

Managed to get the rear suspension in with the diff and control arms and axles. Now that the car is being assembled, I find that the only thing I leave with when I'm done working on it for the day is anti-seize on my hands and fingers. such a nice feeling! no cleanup!

 

New question:

Engine slingers colours... I plated the rear one yellow, and managed to get a 1971 front engine slinger from a parts car. it seems to be clear/silver zinc. But most of the NOS rear ones are yellow.

 

Were the front ones clear/silver and the rear ones yellow? or were they both yellow for 1970 and clear/silver for 1971? Any consensus on that?

 

I have to refinish the front one anyways, so... i can change the colour of the rear one if it's not right at this point.

 

Got some more items in the tumbler whirring away right meow. Going for another plating run soon!

Edited November 7, 2015 by Careless

[Mark Maras]

They were both silver on my 71.

[Careless]

Won't be long now, the engine is almost complete! I know the oil filter is the wrong type. I have 4 of the japanese OE ones, and I need to replace the plug on the end of the alternator. The wires are actually uninsulated near where they go in, so i might have to take it back apart. bummer!!!

 

just a couple small things left to do

 

going to sharkhide the carbs tomorrow to make sure they're ready for the new Type No. 12 studs at the top of the head. some small bits still need plating, but they' be done soon. I don't want to install the exhaust manifold yet, because that would make the Air Gallery easy to scratch- it's in the way of where I have to put the studs, so I'll do that first, then install the exhaust manifold and carbs in one go. I'm shooting for Monday/Tuesday.

 

 

 

 

I wire wheel'd every inch milimeter of the cylinder head with a tiny stainless brush to take the paint that was previously put on so that I can get it to look natural, and I then coated it with sharkhide.

I don't think I'll be doing the overspray thing that the OE assembly showed. I know it's original style... but I think it would be a shame to do that since I've taken more care than Datsun did at the time to make sure everything is as good as I can do it without going extremely nuts.

 

As far as I know, all the bolts are in the right place and the right size. The engine mount bolts are little odd though. I think I'm missing one of the same size, so I'll have to use a different one and hope that wherever it goes I can use a different one there too until I reach a threaded hole that I have an extra bolt for. hehe 

 

Taking extra care with every one of the RTV'd surfaces. Rather than put a bead on the surface and tighten it down with a gasket, I am painting both sides of the gasket with an extremely thin/smooth RTV coating that barely gets pushed out of the ends. It's very hard to find an area with more RTV than shown here on the valve cover cork gasket.

 

I had another white felt looking gasket that was in the box too for the valve cover, but I used the cork one instead. Am I supposed to use both or something?

 

Edited November 12, 2015 by Careless

[Careless]

Looking for photos with measurements for where the Intake Filter plenum box has the stickers situated. Anyone have photos of OE placement?

 

I have repro stickers and would like to put them on soon.

 

Once the thermostat is actually in there (just set it up for photo) and the carbs are on, I'm going to have the Smog Pump put back in, and the front bolt should be torqued tomorrow. Hoping to put the engine slingers on there too so I can put it in the car soon. I think I can get to every other part with the engine inside the car.

[Careless]

little bit more of a sneekitie peekitie with the carbs and manfold on.

 

 

 

 

 

i painted the heatshield with high heat paint, and i found a half full can of cold galvanizing compound. I'm going to spray that on top of the high heat stuff and hope it doesn't come off when the engine is running. It's not that hard to remove and refinish anyways.

Edited November 15, 2015 by Careless

[Matthew Abate]

Try a wet on wet application. If the chemical compositions of the two paints are compatible they should fuse without causing any blistering or crinkling. Then it's just a question of how well the base layer sticks.

/M

Edited November 15, 2015 by Matthew

[siteunseen]

Wow, that's nice!  True Z porn. 

 

Those pictures and a tub of axle grease, I'll be right back...

[Patcon]

Careless

Looks perfect! Like a museum piece. Fabulous work

[Captain Obvious]

Those pictures and a tub of axle grease, I'll be right back...

 

Haha!!

 

Interested.  Interested.  Very  interested....

[dmorales-bello]

Careless: Certainly museum quality build! Congrats! Are you sure you're gonna want to run this engine and dirty it up? .

[grannyknot]

Oh oh, I think you got the engine block colour wrong, it a shade too dark, tear it down, start over,

and do it right this time huh

[Careless]

Try a wet on wet application. If the chemical compositions of the two paints are compatible they should fuse without causing any blistering or crinkling. Then it's just a question of how well the base layer sticks.

/M

 

Do you have any brands/product names for that type of stuff, Matthew? I won't be able to use it for this current build, but I'd like to experiment with various finishes in the future. This is for the heatshield, right? The thing with the heatshield final finish is that it's supposed to look like a velvet grey. Most paints aside from Cold Galvanizing do not give that finish, as it's 93% Zinc rich, so it's essentially zinc, paint base, and adhesion promoter. It has a very distinct look to it.