240Z Resto - 01/1970 Car

[racer47201]

Add me to the list too!

[CanTechZ]

On ‎4‎/‎7‎/‎2016 at 0:44 AM, Careless said:

Mini-Update:
 

• *** SIDENOTE ***  anyone have pics of how the original steering rack boots were attached? Safety Wire? Band Clamps? Can't seem to find the answer

 

It looks like the original clamps were O-rings. Here are a couple of pictures from the FSM.  They are missing on my 7'70 since the boots were replaced 10 years ago, but an old steering rack from a 12'70 parts car I have does have some of them.

HTH

Mike

[Careless]

7 hours ago, S30Driver said:

Wow, what a great tool!  It laughs at those notorious spindle pins!

Put me on that list ...

Interesting that you use liquid wrench instead of Aero Kroil or PB Blaster, but it appears to have worked for you.

A controlled test was conducted in April/May of 2007 issue of Machinist's Workshop. Lloyd Bender tested 4 of the better known brands up against an Acetone + ATF mix (actually power steering fluid in the photos), and while Kroil came second to the home-brew concoction, but it was not better than liquid wrench by a long-shot. Keeping that in mind, 4 cans of Liquid Wrench costs about 25 bucks here. 4 cans of Kroil costs about 70 bucks. And since I didn't break a bolt, I know what I'll be using for future jobs as well, simply based on cost, and because the closest Kroil dealer is a place I despise shopping at. Liquid Wrench can be had on sale for $3.99 sometimes, so it's almost a no-brainer for the amount I used on the car.

I did not do the ATF (PSF) + Acetone mix because acetone and plastic/rubber aren't best friends- and I don't want to accidentally get any on something that may still be in usable condition if it's to be used in the future for or put back on the car. Also, I'd have to buy a pressurized sprayer to make good use of the mixture, and I'd have to wait for that to come in. Lastly, I'm not sure I feel great about self-filling and pressurizing acetone on my own. I simply don't know enough about the safety precautions involved to feel safe doing it, but it has crossed my mind as an option for the future.

I've used PB'laster as well, and it's great but I actually found ReleaseAll to work better in my own tests. But I have to say I was impressed with the Liquid Wrench. I did, however, start using it after emptying two cans of ROST-OFF from Wurth, which is also a fantastic product (as are all their stuff), but I can't speak to how well it stacks up against Liquid Wrench because i basically "double doused" each bolt on the car before attempting to remove them... maybe even triple. But there were some that came off noticeably easy and I only sprayed Liquid Wrench on those ones.

I think my favorite thing about liquid wrench is just how far it shoots out of the can, and how it holds itself together in stream, making it easier to pin point than other fluids that break up mid-air the further they travel. I was able to snipe bolts, like the furthest back of the little square rubber bumpers on top of the driver front fender hood rail while the car was 1 foot over my head and I was standing in front of the passenger headlight. The distance is about 4 to 6 feet in arc. Very controllable. It's a very concentrated spray stream and predictable (minimized mess). Though the Wurth Rost-Off Nozzles spray just a bit better and dont hurt the finger as much. Which is great, because I kept some Wurth nozzles and they fit right on the liquid wrench cans too :-)

 

I've attached a PDF of the article for anyone who cares to read.

Machinist's Workshop penetrating oils article.pdf

Edited April 8, 2016 by Careless

[Careless]

5 hours ago, Gav240z said:

If you make these tools, I'll definitely buy 1. Very handy to have.

I found the vice rod at a friend's shop. It's not that'd i'd expect to make ludicrous capital gains or anything with fastener pullers for a 40 year old car, but I think actually making the tool would be cost prohibitive from a sales standpoint. If there was a cheaper way to make a tool as beefy as this instead of the other ones I've seen online, then I'd do it. I guess I can look into it... I've noticed this stuff is extremely expensive here in Canada.

The Thrust Bearing is $20
The ACME rod is $36 ($110 divided by 3 pieces per rod) 
The ACME nut is $14
Then I need some DOM tubing as well
And those prices don't include tax...

Then I'd have to get a length of tube and pay my friend for vice time. 

It would be a $90 - $120 dollar tool + shipping.
I'm not sure how many of those would sell...

Edited April 8, 2016 by Careless

[Careless]

54 minutes ago, CanTechZ said:

It looks like the original clamps were O-rings. Here are a couple of pictures from the FSM.  They are missing on my 7'70 since the boots were replaced 10 years ago, but an old steering rack from a 12'70 parts car I have does have some of them.

HTH

Mike

<photos>

Ohhhh I totally forgot to check that. Sweet!
I wonder how the other end was held down, though. Probably just a tight o-ring as well. I guess that's what I'll use!

 

Thanks, Mike!

[CanTechZ]

You're welcome, keep up the great work!!

[Careless]

13 minutes ago, CanTechZ said:

You're welcome, keep up the great work!!

This interior stuff is killing me.  still fun, though.

 

[Gav240z]

8 hours ago, Careless said:

I found the vice rod at a friend's shop. It's not that'd i'd expect to make ludicrous capital gains or anything with fastener pullers for a 40 year old car, but I think actually making the tool would be cost prohibitive from a sales standpoint. If there was a cheaper way to make a tool as beefy as this instead of the other ones I've seen online, then I'd do it. I guess I can look into it... I've noticed this stuff is extremely expensive here in Canada.

The Thrust Bearing is $20
The ACME rod is $36 ($110 divided by 3 pieces per rod) 
The ACME nut is $14
Then I need some DOM tubing as well
And those prices don't include tax...

Then I'd have to get a length of tube and pay my friend for vice time. 

It would be a $90 - $120 dollar tool + shipping.
I'm not sure how many of those would sell...

Yeah I can imagine the time + effort involved means they are not cheap to make. How much as spindle pins these days? I think something like $80 a pair now? Maybe you can get them cheaper? But if you can save your pins each time you remove them it would only take a couple of uses to have the tool pay for itself. If you own more than 1 S30Z (some of us are that guilty and suckers for punishment) then the savings are even better...

But I understand not everyone will see it that way.

[Careless]

On 4/9/2016 at 10:19 PM, Gav240z said:

Yeah I can imagine the time + effort involved means they are not cheap to make. How much as spindle pins these days? I think something like $80 a pair now? Maybe you can get them cheaper? But if you can save your pins each time you remove them it would only take a couple of uses to have the tool pay for itself. If you own more than 1 S30Z (some of us are that guilty and suckers for punishment) then the savings are even better...

But I understand not everyone will see it that way.

Spindle Pins are in the region of CDN $32 a piece + rubber and hardware last I ordered. So you're probably right about the $80 mark. With this tool, they came out relatively unscathed and COULD be reused, but part of the reason they're so tough to get out is that the center portion MAY tweaked a little in conjunction with the bushings sleeves having a gorilla grip on either end as well. So replacing them is not a bad decision- though the budget minded may be able to reuse successfully. 

I've been toying with the idea of making some tools up, but I don't quite have access to the lathe right now, so that would increase cost quite a bit- since I made this one on my own time.

 

To be completely fair- it could be replicated with the same degree of efficacy with some back-to-back welded wheel lug nuts, and high-tensile threaded rod, which can be bought for way cheaper. In fact, you could make 9 of the same tool for the price of 1 piece of 1" ACME rod and 3 ACME gear nuts. The tool could cost about 50 dollars to make, though there are examples already available online. I just happened across this broken vice, so it was a boon for me at the time.

 

[Careless]

Small Update:

Car should be ready to start very soon! Reproduction exhaust should be in today.  Need to get one or two small items plated before putting it on. I'll also be painting the Nichira N3300 midpipe with some silver paint instead of leaving it black. I'm just waiting for the MSA exhaust to see what kind of finish it needs to be. I would rather it be close to a "as-equipped" part, rather than "off-the-shelf" NOS part. I think it would look weird having a Silver-Black-Silver exhaust system.

Alternator needs a slight wiring repair before it goes on. It was rebuilt, but the two-terminal brush holder connector seems to have cracked wiring right at the grommet. I should have some extra wiring laying around that is the same colour. I'm missing some small fuel injection clamps- but I'll be using regular ones for now and switching over to a set of plated ones once I get it running.

I was wondering if anyone knows a good source of "OEM Style" Exhaust clamps. Or if there are some clamps that I can buy and mix and match the U-bolt and the clamping bracket to get something that looks like the OEM ones. I can have them plated after I get the car running.

I've also repaired some dents on a gas tank that I took out of the 1971 parts car. Now my main concern is... how the hell does use tank repair sealing epoxy and plug up the FEED line to the fuel pump? It's so tiny and swirly and goes to the baffled side of the tank. The last tank I assisted in sealing was an EFI tank, and thus it did not have that issue.

Any suggestions on these two issues? Gettin' so close!

- Also been thinking what oil to run for initial break-in. I'll probably just use Rotella T dino oil with some WIX napa gold filters- save the japanese blue cans for proper oil change. I have some Zerex G-05 coolant which I tend to lean towards. along with some standard GL4 trans fluid. I will be draining and refilling all oils in short order, as the trans and engine were rebuilt (how well, I'm not sure!)

Edited August 2, 2016 by Careless