Well phooey. I'm sitting on the side of the road after my little red beauty stopped for the second time. I'm just traveling along at about 50 miles an hour and she just quits. This is the first time that she's stopped twice in a single day.

It seems to be happening more frequently, apparently making her unreliable. I'll get back to you after I get back home.

Take heart.  She's only unreliable because she's got some part that's acting up.  Replace that part, get everything in working order, and drive the car regularly.  Then you'll see the Z is a very reliable machine -- especially the fuel injected 280Z.  I've found that the Z is a less expensive car to maintain than most modern cars, despite the fact that parts are harder to come by.  It's a simpler car, so there's less to go wrong.  There's also plenty of space under the hood to do repairs.  It's a very good car for a DIY'er.

 

There are a number of us who drive our Z's daily or semi-daily.  We usually start out with problems like yours, but eventually our cars get us around pretty reliably.  I don't hesitate to take my Z on the road to other cities.  It's a great road car!

 

You'll get your car straight.

I just talked to Chet, who Steve suggested I get to look at my 280Z. He thinks that most probably it is the rust and debris in the gas tank that is causing my problems. We have tentavely made plans for me to get my Z to him to do the work. All I have to do is find the $ to pay him with, and it will be done.

Thank you Steve for connecting us!

Thank you for your emotional support. I got very dismayed when she stopped the 2nd time. Normally, once the episode is over she runs like a champ.

I agree with all the fine comments you made about the Z's. I have thought the same about them, I do know about the abilities of these cars. I drove my 1971 Z 256,000 miles with no serious problems. I think they are Super Cars, very durable.

Thanks again...

I just talked to Chet, who Steve suggested I get to look at my 280Z. He thinks that most probably it is the rust and debris in the gas tank that is causing my problems. We have tentavely made plans for me to get my Z to him to do the work. All I have to do is find the $ to pay him with, and it will be done.

Thank you Steve for connecting us!

I'm glad I could help. Chet is good people, and he knows his Z stuff.

Looking at that plug wire boot, I'd guess it was leaking from that heater hose too.  Nice and dry now.

 

You could, most likely, use a new set of plugs.  Have you taken one out yet?  Maybe wire brush the ones you have.  I think I see "BP", the right ones for our cars are BP6ES, gapped somewhere around .035.

 

Edited June 12, 20159 yr by siteunseen

No I have not pulled out the plugs to check. They all, except for this one, are bright and shiny. Appear very new.

Hate to sound dumb, but what brake fluid does one use? The 2 resoviers are needing a bit, about half full.

Thanks,

Jai

Looking at that plug wire boot, I'd guess it was leaking from that heater hose too.  Nice and dry now.

 

You could, most likely, use a new set of plugs.  Have you taken one out yet?  Maybe wire brush the ones you have.  I think I see "BP", the right ones for our cars are BP6ES, gapped somewhere around .035.

 

Cliff/Jai,

 

Whose car is has that engine? I see a pretty good crack in that head, right above where the boot makes a right turn down.

Good eyes/catch Steve, I didn't even notice that. 

 

It's Jai's picture from her gallery.

That's the boss for the #6 exhaust rocker pivot.  Probably unlikely to leak anything?  I would think a good welder could touch that up, even without removing the head.  It might not even be necessary if the crack is stable.  The big question, though, is whether there's chocolate milk in the crankcase.

 

The engine should definitely get a round of new plugs and wires.  That's never a bad thing.

I think I see JB Weld on the fitting where it was leaking.

I think I would pull that apart to see what's going on.

And install new pipe fitting.

I don't think it's a crack. I think it's a shadow. Hard to say from the picture though.

 

And I'm not sure if that's JB Weld either. It could be a liquid sealer used when the connector was threaded on.

 

Both are worth a closer look.

 

Chuck