Problems with chugging and stalling 1976 280 Z

[Redwing]

Somewhere on this list, someone suggested to post what parts I need, and perhaps one of you would be able to help. I cannot locate that post, so here it is.

Anyone know what ignition module I would need for my 1976 280 Z?

And where can I find it for the least amount of $?

Thanks folks...

[FastWoman]

We don't know that your ignition module is bad yet!  The next time your car quits on you, you need to be armed for testing it:  (1) A shot of starter fluid in the intake to see whether the engine will start and run for a few seconds before dying -- would rule out ignition module and redirect your attention to fuel.  Or (2) try jumping a spark from a sparkplug wire to ground while you crank the engine -- would also rule out ignition and indicate fuel. 

 

Parts are fairly available.  You can search by year and model on ebay.  I've also seen ignition modules for sale at AutoZone, but I don't know whether they're any good or for real.  Finally, you can do what a few of us have done -- an GM HEI ignition module retrofit.  I'm happy with mine.

 

But first do the diagnostic work.  You don't want to go randomly replacing parts you don't know are bad.  Maintenance will cost you quite a lot of money that way.

[Redwing]

Tried to go to grocery today, 6 miles away. She stalled and stopped 3 times on the way there. Once on way home. Made for a very long trip.

I've been told that since her temp guage is not working, that she is reacting as if it is very cold out and using extra fuel. Not sure if that info is correct. Any idea?

Seems she might be running rich, the exhaust pipe is black with residue, can get gobs of it on fingers by a small swipe. Black exhaust exits.

I will prepare for those tests the next time I go out, and will report back.

Thank you all for your help...

[Zed Head]

I've been told that since her temp guage is not working, that she is reacting as if it is very cold out and using extra fuel. Not sure if that info is correct. Any idea?

 

That is not correct.  It's one of those things an "almost there" mechanic might screw up for you.  There are two temperature units, one for the ECU and one for the gauge.  The engine can run fine without a gauge and can indicate temperature just fine but have a problem with the fuel mixture due to a bad sensor.  Two totally separate issues.

 

One thing that any decent mechanic could do for you is to put a fuel pressure gauge on your fuel rail, between the filter and the injectors.  If they could mount it where you can see it while driving you'd be able to see if you're losing fuel pressure.  You'll have to drive with the hood partially open so the gauge can hang out but you'll know something very important.  Since the problem is happening frequently now, it should only take a short while to see if it's fuel or ignition.

[Redwing]

Ok, I have to admit you all are way over my head. Some of the parts listed in just letters, I am unable to figure out.

Most of the ideas you share are beyond my abilities to do.

I do not have any of the testing items you suggest to use.

I am wondering if a mechanic will follow my instructions I get from you, or will I cause ego problems, with him thinking I do not know what I am talking about, and do whatever.

So, any ideas knowing this about me?

Sorry...

[siteunseen]

Hey there Jai.

 

I was hoping we lived a little closer than we do, 4 hours of driving is quite a bit of time for me for something that possibly won't help.  If your tank is crudded up and needs to be removed and cleaned, that's what I'm guessing, you're looking at multiple trips too.  I can't get away with that.  My mother would not forgive me for a loooong time.  She needs stuff done too but I'm constantly reminding her I'm not an only child but she says I'm the only one that has sense enough to get things done.

 

Maybe Steve's guy is closer?  Or someone in Chattanooga?  Could you ask the previous owner who worked on it in the past? 

[SteveJ]

Chet lives about 50 miles from Jai. If I weren't so jammed up with work, I would make the trip.

[Redwing]

I have no idea who owned her. I had the clean title, one owner from Az. But I got her off eBay, she was in Miami. No idea how she got there.

[Redwing]

I could start out to Chet and if got into trouble, call a tow truck. I get that for free for 100 mi., once a week.

[FastWoman]

Jai, it's not safe to assume your engine is running rich, just from the black exhaust.  It could also be running very lean.  (This is a common misunderstanding, even by professional mechanics.)  These engines are more likely to run lean than rich.  You also mentioned a hot transmission tunnel, which could mean excessively hot exhaust, which could come from a lean mixture (and combustion of fuel and air actually in the exhaust system -- manifold glowing red, etc.)

 

The thing about having a separate temp sensor for the gauge and for the fuel injection is actually fairly common design for an older car.  Even my 1992 Saturn and my 1994 Mazda have separate sensors.  You should be concerned if your mechanic doesn't know/suspect this sort of thing.

 

Before we can provide much help to you, you're going to have to learn your engine.  There is no better way than to sit down on a slow day with Nissan's factory service manual, which is the very best reference for your car, and which is free for you to download.  There are a lot of acronyms we throw around, and they're essential to the discussion.  And when we talk about parts, you have to know where they are on the engine.  The part of the FSM (factory service manual) you need to read is section EF ("engine fuel"). 

 

Also study this thread:  http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/26501-sticky-efi-thread-please-chip-in-fi-guys/

[Zed Head]

Ok, I have to admit you all are way over my head. Some of the parts listed in just letters, I am unable to figure out.

Most of the ideas you share are beyond my abilities to do.

I do not have any of the testing items you suggest to use.

I am wondering if a mechanic will follow my instructions I get from you, or will I cause ego problems, with him thinking I do not know what I am talking about, and do whatever.

So, any ideas knowing this about me?

Sorry...

This will make things difficult but not impossible.  We all, out here, tend to forget where we started.  I worked on cars all through high school and many years after before taking a break and buying a new car.  When I came back to it, even I took some time to get back up to speed.

 

Here is a simple thing to look for that might help determine if you have a fuel problem (clogged lines or bad fuel pump or bad fuel pump power circuit), versus a bad ignition system.  As you're driving down the road, if the engine dies, leave the car in gear and watch the tachometer needle.  If the needle drops directly to zero even though the engine is turning over, that's a sign of an ignition problem.  If the tachometer needle still shows RPM but the engine is obviously not running, that's a sign of good ignition but no fuel.

 

I don't know if the engine turns fast enough to make the needle move during starting but it might,  So if you end up dead on the road, watch the needle while trying to restart.  If it moves with the engine turning over, you probably have spark.

 

Of course you'll still need someone to work on it, but at least you'll have a better idea of what it needs.

 

You might also consider letting the engine run in the driveway and seeing if it dies eventually.  If it does, you can do some detective work within walking distance of your home.  It will cost you some fuel but won't hurt anything.

[siteunseen]

I have no idea who owned her. I had the clean title, one owner from Az. But I got her off eBay, she was in Miami. No idea how she got there.

Script flip!

Take some more pictures of your motor, top drivers side would be nice, add them to your gallery. We can copy & paste from there. Pictures are priceless to us helping you, It's like a game of chess, figuring out problems. I'm not too good, tic tac doe is my game.