Jai, you're looking at all this stuff via email?  Why not just go to the website?  (You can bookmark it for ease of use.)  Here's the link to the S30 forum:

 

http://www.classiczcars.com/forum/4-1st-generation-z-s30-240z-260z-280z/

 

You'll find all the threads neatly organized there.

Yes reading there as you mentioned. Still trying to find the one about bouncing (I think that is how he described it) back and forth in 1st and 2nd gears. That plus the clunk in the left rear shock, which happens to be a 2nd, maybe 3rd problem here.

More later.

How does one subscribe to the posts?

I believe it's the "follow this topic" button at the top.  I think you would select "instant."

Siteunseen...

Thank you for you answer and the schematics. I do not see anywhere on the main diagram on the left, about the resistor for the tach with the blue and yellow wire coming from it. Where in the engine is that resistor located?

Siteunseen...

Thank you for you answer and the schematics. I do not see anywhere on the main diagram on the left, about the resistor for the tach with the blue and yellow wire coming from it. Where in the engine is that resistor located?

The good news is she does not seem to have a fuel problem. So I need to check out the coil next. Then if that is positive for being the culprit, I will need to know where and what replacement I need.

Thanks all...

Jai, bring us along with you on the diagnostics:  You've determined fuel is not the problem because the car won't start even when you spray starter fluid in the intake?

No starter fluid yet, that is after SS comes. Another friend & I opened the fuel line and it squirted 6 feet. But not having the tablet with me so I forgot to let it run out till it stopped. I reread your instructions later and realized I was wrong. So we will have to repeat that. That is why so much I need the manual, I need to keep looking at something I am doing. Not having a working pc, nor printer, I cannot print out instructions. Just have this tablet.

Just have been reading older posts.

1) On May 14 Patcon listed "Oh my" about a Z for sale.

2) On May 15 idol - "bring a trailer" which opened to

3) Original paint 1973 Datsun Z Automatic scroll down to

4) On May 9 -Z in head posted this below

My question is, could this info be correct for my 1976 Z?

Zinhead

"Reading these comments brings back memories of my silver/blue 260Z. The two strongest are lurid powerslides and standing in the hot sun staring at the engine while waiting for the fuel lines to cool. After opening the hood, you could get a sense of how long you had to wait by gauging the size and ferocity of the heat wave escaping.

At the advice of a local Z mechanic, we removed the front mechanical fuel pump, and replaced the original electric pump in back of the car with a slightly more robust model. After wrapping the fuel lines in insulation, vapor lock ceased. Of course it was fall by then, so maybe the cooler temperatures had something to do with that. After selling the car, I always thought Datsun dealers started having Spring Sales Events in order to clear out their Z car inventory before vapor lock season started.

In any case, this looks like a lovely car that that has been well maintained by a series of owners. I hope the buyer keeps it original as well."

????? Redwing

The auto correct messed with names, sorry.

Zinhead, any chance you can photo the improvments?

Thank you.

It wouldn't apply to your car. The 260Z had carburetors. It also had an electric fuel pump at the tank and a mechanical fuel pump at the engine. The dual fuel pump design was an effort to combat vapor lock that would occur with the flat top carburetors. The fuel pressure in the 260Z was around 4 psi or less.

 

Your car has fuel injection. That means it has a higher pressure electric fuel pump mounted at the tank. "Vapor lock" in a 280Z is not the same. By 79 or 80, Nissan went with a priming mode for the fuel pump during engine start to overcome any leakdown that allowed vapor to form in the fuel lines.