Questions about 70.5 or 71 240z value

[jareddbh]

Hello all,

 

I'm a newbie to these forums, and still don't own a Z.  I've been trying to track one down for a long time now and think I may have found it.

 

A guy at work has a 70 or 71 240Z (will update tomorrow when I talk to him again) in great cosmetic condition, but does not run.  The engine and manual trans are there, but it's been sitting for a few years.  Apparently the fuel pump needs to be replaced and a new battery.  I'm pretty good about getting an engine to run, but there may be some surprises.

 

The interior has been mostly redone, but it is missing the wood shift knob (thief).  Good upholstery, paint is pretty good orange though not original.  I haven't seen it in person yet, but don't expect rust.  This is an Arizona car.  It needs new brakes, but should be good after that.

 

I know it's difficult without pictures or more info, but ballpark if you can!  I really want to get a 240, but do not want to get ripped off.

 

Thanks,
Jared

[SteveJ]

No pictures = just guessing. Go to http://www.zhome.com and research problem areas on early Z cars.

[Zed Head]

"Ripped off" is in the mind of the buyer.  I'll guess $3000.  

 

Never mind, Nada and Kelly apparently don't even do old cars any more.  Try Hemming - http://www.hemmings.com/priceguide/

 

Notice the difference between 70 and 71.  70 is a collector car, 71 is just a 240Z.  No offense to any post-70 owners.

Edited June 15, 2015 by Zed Head

[siteunseen]

I bought one from a guy that wanted $5,000 but it wasn't running so I couldn't drive it.  He said it was something simple that was keeping it from running.  I told him when he fixed that simple thing to call me, I wanted the car.  He wouldn't let me leave.  After a few back and forths I got it for $2,000.  The tank was full of crud and the points distributor was all hacked up so I put in a ZX electronic distributor.  New tires, sitting causes flat spots, reworked the brakes and washed it at least 10 times.  If you can't drive it be careful, people tend to lie or just forget about problems with a car that's been sitting. 

 

Here it is after a lot of elbow grease and the help of the good folks on this forum.

 

 

[Hardway]

If you go to look at it ask if you can take the valve cover off and look at the valve train.  At the very least pop the distributor cap off and see if the points internals are there, smell the oil, try to turn the engine over by hand.  Then pop the gas cap off and smell.  Siteunseen is right, most people lie, forget, or just don't know why a car does not run.  If it just needed a fuel pump, on a difficulty scale of 1-10, it ranks around a 2.  Easy for you but also easy for the owner, why haven't they already replaced it?

 

The Datsun I-6 is a very durable engine with many documented cases of successfully waking them up after many years of non-use.  With that in mind, check out the thread link on waking up an old Z car.  On classic Z's the mechanicals are fairly easily to deal with and reasonably priced.  Rust and missing odds and ends will eat you alive.  If the car is in good shape body wise, interior is good minus the missing shift knob, and the engine appears sound, then make an offer.  $2K - $3K is not unreasonable or insulting.  Solid running early 240z's in good but not perfect condition start at $7K and quickly go up with an average $12K - $18K so you could end up with a heck of a deal.  If you do get the car you are looking at be prepared to be patient and diligent in going through all the systems to make it run again.  Keep up posted and give us some pictures!  Good luck.

 

http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/21063-waking-the-sleeping-beast/

[jfa.series1]

Keep in mind that not all '71s are just another 240Z.  The Series 1 run went to the end of January 1971 - to VIN 20,500 (approx.).  Series 1 cars with a build date of 9/70 - 1/71 are all titled as a '71 model.  These cars tend to have a higher value than the Series 2 '71s.  Tell us a bit more about the VIN and build date you are looking at and pics will help a lot.

[jareddbh]

Thanks for the replies everyone!

 

I really appreciate the help.  Unfortunately, I do not think I am going to make this deal happen.  We were going to trade straight up for my running 68 Impala 4 door hardtop in 7/10 condition (new paint, some new interior).  The problem is, he basically doesn't want to let me turn the ignition to see if it will even turnover.  No way I'm going to get a car that I can't even check basic system functionality.  It's been sitting 4 or 5 years, so I expected some work, but I need to know what I'm getting into.

 

I'm still on the hunt for a Z. I really do think they are a good candidate for daily driving.  While I'm looking, does anyone have advice for what to avoid (year, model, etc). I'm not opposed to a 260 or 280 unless there is a reason I should be.

[KenFirch]

Maybe consider spending more $ for something that won't nickel and dime you to death.   Sometimes spending more upfront has it's advantages.   Here's one in your area: http://phoenix.craigslist.org/cph/cto/5070405247.html.   Regardless, the guys description of this car is hilarious!   Maybe after talking him back down to earth about the car he'll take way less than he's asking.

[siteunseen]

With a good fuel delivery system I don't know of a bad S30 (240 thru 280s, '70 to '78).  My opinion.

 

'73 and '74s had some emission carbs that are frowned upon by most folks, but they can easily be replaced with the earlier carbs.  '75 was the 1st year for EFI so by '77 & '78 they got the bugs worked out.  

 

You want carburetors or fuel injection?  The bodies are the same just some interior differences and the bumpers were upgraded per DOT laws.

 

My favorite is the simple '72. 

Edited June 17, 2015 by siteunseen

[rossiz]

i agree with the above - spend your money on the body, as it's the part that takes the most skill, time and money to really get right if it needs a lot of work. bodywork is also the biggest risk for cost overruns, as you rarely see it all at first look - you start stripping paint and pulling carpet and it just goes on and on, with the cost along with it...

don't be afraid of a tatty interior - other than the door cards and some of the plastics, you can re-do it all yourself with readily available replacement parts for not that much money. a carpet kit is a few hundred, new seat upholstery and foam is a couple hundred, a headliner is about a hundred, a full dash cap is a hundred or so, and you can do these projects one at a time as you save up the cash.

as far as the drivetrain, there are lots of high-mileage z's still running great, and an entire engine/transmission rebuild pales in comparison to the money you can spend on rust, damage repair and paint.

lucky you're in arizona - buy the nicest, most solid body you can find (original but faded is better than shiny but restored) then get it running and restore it as a rolling project - a little at a time vs. taking it off the road for months and sinking tons of $$$ into it all at once. much more enjoyable that way, and you may make some better informed decisions as you gain some seat time in it.

[Mark Maras]

Great advice from the members. Personally, I would try to buy the car at a reduced price. One has to assume the engine is toast & won't turn over or is making a horrible noise. If it truly is a COMPLETE CAR & IN GOOD SHAPE, the engine wouldn't be a deal breaker for me. In fact, it might be a deal maker. There are plenty of good used engines still avail.

[HuD 91gt]

I paid $5500 for a car running on 3 cylinders, auto 1971. Value is in the eye of the beholder.