Just a guess.  Maybe they tightened all the nuts and bolts while the car was in the air with the suspention hanging, instead of on the ground in the running position.  Just a guess.

 

Bonzi Lon

Thank you all for the suggestions. I will check each of them out.

Good luck finding this. Mine did all sorts of crazy things untill I replaced basically everything on the drive train and suspension it was all worn out from years of abuse.

 

If you replace the bushings your best bet is to do buy a urethane kit and replace everything. Some things needed to be torqued down when the car is on the ground, the FSM has all the torque values.

 

Engine mounts can be done with the engine in the car, it just needs to be lifted up a bit with a crane of lift from underneath.

Edited June 21, 20159 yr by bartsscooterservice

im +1 for the diff mount, i checked u-joint play but getting the car up on stands, and put it into neutral while moving the tire back and forth, and it seemed fine. However in the end it was basically the movement caused by the rotation from the driveshaft that moves the diff upward when under load. When shifting it removes the load from the diff causing it to fall back down, then back up when the accelerator is depressed. The diff mount was really worn out, but i just spun it around 180* and slapped it back in, and it seemed to resolve the issue. once all the rust gets fixed ill get a new diff mount..... 

Throughout the entire ordeal i never thought how UN-scientific it was.