To Dream the Impossible Dream (Redwing's Z cars)

[EuroDat]

That is what I like about this site too. The members are friendlier than other forums Im in. I don't know why the others seem to be so "agressive", there is no need for it.

Unforntunatly I can only offer advice and mental support.

Back to Redbird and redwing. I think when you weigh up all the pros and cons the 280Z still seems to me to be the best option for your current situation. If funds were not a problem than the 240Z would than be a better choice. Some more photos of redwing would also

be helpfull.

Redwing has been sitting in the weather for 8 years and I persume something went wrong with her before she was parked.

If I was in this situation with all the history around Redwing I wouldn't sell her. I would try to preserve her more. Just sitting in the outside elements like in the photo don't do these old cars any good at all. And you never know what opportunities may just be around the corner.

Once you get an fsm, you can read up on the tech stuff and start doing some fault finding and assessing the situation before spending any money on both the Zeds.

I wish you all the luck with your endeavours. Maybe Steve wiil come to the rescue.

Chas

[Redwing]

Sorry I made a mistake thinking the first post disappeared.

Edited July 3, 2015 by Redwing

[Redwing]

Note:

Redwing is going to move to be undercover. My 12 X 20 (tarped) car shelter is to be moved for her. It is now at a bad place, with very tall pine trees. You know the kind, break and/or fall with stormy weather. It will be put next to RedBird's carport, so they will be happy together!

[siteunseen]

Note:

Redwing is going to move to be undercover. My 12 X 20 (tarped) car shelter is to be moved for her. It is now at a bad place, with very tall pine trees. You know the kind, break and/or fall with stormy weather. It will be put next to RedBird's carport, so they will be happy together!

Maybe they'll mate and bring a good running Z into the world. 

[Redwing]

Siteunseen...

You are so funny!!!

[Redwing]

Hi all,

I hope your 4th celebrations went well for you. Mine was quiet, watching TV with my dogs. Ha!

I have ordered some parts. Due to a mis-communication on my part, I jumped the gun in my eagerness, may have ordered too quickly things possibly not needed.

Here is what I ordered:

Tune up kit- spark plugs & wires, fuel filter, distribution cap & rotor. Ebay #151737279936

Electricians tool - Ebay # 331578159594

Wire harness repair kit - Ebay # 231225142945

K &N oil filter - Ebay # 331581372144

I will be picking up the oil on Thurs. when it comes in - Chevron Delo400 150 Plan on using this oil (for first oil change anyhow, as the oil in RB is so black) and FastWoman says it will do a good job of cleaning out the mess.

At that time I will get the starter fluid, since I have nothing to drive, and have to go on Thurs. anyhow.

2 questions. What size butt connectors do I need for the black wires, the spider web on my engine? Amount?

And, what size and amount, for rest of wires I might need to replace connectors in engine? Get a kit with all 3 sizes? I have no idea. I have a heater gun I used for embossing on paper, but have no idea (it is pretty hot), if it is hot enough to shrink the marine/waterproof butt connectors. Or should I just get the clamp on ones? Ideas?

And...I have seen 3 spark plug sockets I am interested in, but do not know about size for RB.

Snap On - used, 3/8 drive universal(fits my ratchet), with a 5/8 swivel. Ebay # 231613879676

Kobalt - 3/8 drive, 18 mm 6 point, socket only. Ebay # 330914026270

Performance Tool - 3/8 drive, 14 mm socket only. Ebay # 281721031198

Any ideas which would do best for me?

New photo of engine. Hope it is in better focus.

That is it guys, give me your opinions. Thank you.

[EuroDat]

I can't make out what those sockets sizes are. Im having trouble with the ebay links. The spark plugs should be 13/16" . See the link here.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-3-8-in-Drive-13-16-in-Spark-Plug-Socket-H3DSPSKT1316/202913555

Your heat gun could be ok. It needs to generate more heat then a hair dryer. A hair dryer doesn't have enough heat and a paint stripper can have too much so its actually somewhere inbetween. My gun has 2000W which can reach temperatures around 500 degC (about 930deg F).

I have seen these solder sleeves, but never used them yet. They would make joining wires a lot easier. http://www.amazon.com/Waterproof-Solder-Shrink-Connectors-Soldering/dp/B00KU0V586/ref=pd_sim_200_4/190-5064787-0973753?ie=UTF8&refRID=1JEKTM0XYJ39PRFK6R5Y

The tune up kit probably wont solve your problem, but its not a bad idea to change those items.

I understand not having a car to get around making things urgent, but I would try to hold back on ordering too much stuff before doing any testing. Considering your financial situation you may need to buy something that costs more, but the budget is depleated and you will need to wait....

Starter fluid is a great diagnostic tool. Then your can test if its fuel or ingnition (spark) related.

Chas

[FastWoman]

Misc thoughts/answers:

 

1.  Before ordering anything, try buying locally.  That will save you $$$ on shipping.  You could have bought the same K&N oil filter at your local auto parts store for 13.99 (AutoZone price) and saved the $5 shipping (although you would have probably had to pay about 70c in tax).

 

2.  I would set in to replace all the items in your tune-up kit.  It's an easy and quick job.  When replacing the distributor cap and wires, note that the wires are numbered (or should be, as I recall).  Set the new cap beside the old cap (without disconnecting anything yet), and plug in the new wires to the new cap in the same order as you see on the current cap.  (You should pick up a can of silicone dielectric grease, which will become your best friend for making electrical connections, and lightly grease both the metal contacts and the wire boots before you plug them in to the cap.)  Now double-check the order of your wires.  Remember that the #1 cylinder is at the front of the engine,and the #6 is at the rear.  Finally, un-clip your old distributor cap, pull off the rotor (pull straight up), push on the new rotor, and clip on the new cap.  Pull and replace your spark plugs ONLY WHEN THE ENGINE IS COOL.  You will need a little spark plug gapping gauge to bend the electrodes to the correct gap.  Get that tool at the auto parts store.  It probably costs a buck or so.  Also buy your spark plug socket there.  (Take a plug with you to make sure you have the right size.)  When you pull your plugs, keep them in order from #1 to #6, and photograph them for us.  It is important that we see the bottom (dirty) ends of the plugs.  The other end doesn't matter.  Tighten the new plugs to 11-14 ft-lb of torque.  For you, if you're using a typical 3/8" ratchet handle, you would pull on the handle with about 15-20 lb of force.  Pretend you're lifting a turkey.    Before snapping the new boots over the new plugs, lightly grease both the contacts and the boots with dielectric grease.

 

3.  Replacing the fuel filter:  When you pull off the first hose, hold a rag around it to catch any spraying fuel.  There won't be much, but you certainly don't want to get sprayed in the face!  Be careful when you remove the old filter to dump out the fuel onto a piece of white paper.  Photograph it for us.

 

4.  Go ahead and change your oil and filter any time you are ready.

 

5.  Hold off on replacing electrical connectors until we get your car running again.  You've purchased a very nice set of connectors (that I wish I had on my own car), and you will be able to make good use of them.  But let's wait on that.  And in answer to your question, I believe your heat gun would be just the right tool for the heat shrink.  You couldn't ask for a better tool.

 

6.  Your engine photo:  This does help a bit.  I see more detail on that large red hose.  You said it looks like a garden hose, and I would agree.  Therefore, you need to replace it eventually.  But it's not a priority right now.  Vacuum leaks are a higher priority.  Identify the small vacuum hoses (pretty much any hose connecting to the intake manifold), and see if any of them are brittle or cracked.  If they are, replace them.  Ask the folks at your auto parts store to look at your engine and sell you the replacement hoses you need.  Replacing them is easy.  Do it one hose at a time, so that you don't forget how everything was hooked up.

Edited July 6, 2015 by FastWoman

[FastWoman]

But.... having said everything above... none of this is the source of your problem right now.  We need to diagnose what the problem is -- FIRST PRIORITY.  So let's focus on that!

 

I would try to replicate the problem in your driveway, so that when the engine dies, you can diagnose it right there.  You will have the tools, and you won't need to push your car to a safe place. 

 

Do this:  Buy the can of starter fluid.  Find an orifice in the intake manifold where you can spray the stuff in.  If the can of starter fluid comes with a little tube (or if you can borrow a tube from a WD-40 can), you can spray the stuff right into a little vacuum fitting.  There should be a little vacuum hose going from a nipple on the intake manifold to the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail.  Pull that tube off of the intake manifold nipple, and see if you can fit the starter fluid tube inside it, so that you can squirt the fluid right inside the manifold.  If so, then good.  Now replace the vacuum line.

 

Next, start your engine, and let it run in the driveway until it hopefully dies.  Then move quickly.  Shut off the ignition, pull the vacuum tube, spray fluid into the intake manifold for 1 or 2 seconds, replace the vacuum tube, and then try starting the engine.  If the engine runs for a few seconds and then dies, then you've ruled out the ignition system.  Just to be conservative, wait about the same amount of time it took you to spray the starter fluid into the manifold, and try starting again.  It probably won't start.  Then give it another shot of starter fluid and try again.  If it runs a few seconds and dies, then you've pretty much nailed it.  It would be a fuel problem.  If, on the other hand, the engine doesn't start with the first shot of starter fluid, you probably have an ignition problem. 

 

Figure out which -- fuel or ignition -- and we can continue diagnosing from there.

Edited July 6, 2015 by FastWoman

[SteveJ]

Just keep in mind that the more you mess with the cars, the more variables that Chet and I would have to sort out to diagnose what needs to be done.

[FastWoman]

Photograph requests:  Could you get a good, sharp, close-up photo of the sensors and connectors in the front of your thermostat housing, just below where the upper radiator hose connects to the engine?  And could you also get a close-up photo of one of the electrical connectors on an injector?  I want to see the condition of the connectors.

[FastWoman]

^^^ What Steve and Chas said!  I assume your car will start, but just not continue running indefinitely.  Whenever you finish doing something, like replacing your ignition wires, confirm the operational state of the engine:  Make sure it starts and runs.  Replacing plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and fuel filter shouldn't get you in trouble, as long as you are very careful to replicate the plug wire connections EXACTLY.  (You can't mix the plug wires up, and the numbers banded onto the wires should help with that.)