Hey guys. Just putting in my new L28z after some drama, we got the new engine into the bay. With a new started installed it was cranking over intermittently. We thought it was the new starter, but installed the old and it's the same issue.

If a jump a wore from the battery directly to the ignition terminal on the starter it cranks right over. With a voltmeter, the wire from the ignition is only showing 7-9 volts. I assume this is my issue? (I would get 12 direct to the battery).

Looking at te wiring diagram te black wire with the yellow strip (wire which connect ignition to starter) shows that it run direct to the key ignition. When I check for connectivity across the circuit I get nothing! Am I looking at this diagram wrong?

Missing something?

It's probable that the ignition switch ( electrical part ) is worn out. Contact's corroded inside the switch. Ignition switch is still available. Lordco may be able to get them. Rock Auto aslo carries them. Cheap: $16.77 USD for the Beck/Arnley ( good brand. Usually OEM )

 

https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=488797&cc=1209170&jnid=416&jpid=0

 

 

A good modification is to add an auxiliary ignition relay into the circuit. Typical Bosch 40/30 amp Universal relay kit will do. This takes the load off the small contacts in the ignition switch and allows a short run with larger gauge wire from the battery straight to the starter solenoid via the higher current Relay.

 

You can pick them up at any Auto supplier such as Lordco. Pico is a major supplier:

 

http://www.picocanada.com/en/product/926.php

 

Edited July 11, 20159 yr by Chickenman

Check all the connections at the Fuse box as well. Often these get corroded.

 

Pickup a good spray electrical contact cleaner  such as De-Oxit or Weicon Electrical Contact spray. ( If you already don't have some ). The stuff is invaluable on these old cars. Makes an amazing difference, especially on high corrosion connections such as Headlamp connections, wiper motors and even Fuse holders.

 

http://www.weicon.ca/pages/ca/products/spray/cleaning-degreasing/electro-contact-cleaner.php

Edited July 11, 20159 yr by Chickenman

Thanks for the suggestions. I looked deeper into the manual, and since my car was originally an automatic, I had to jump some wires which are in auto cars only. It ended up being those became disconnected.

I still don't know why it was relieving voltage at that point, but maybe it was just a very poor connection between the two?

Long story short, she runs but has a massive front seal leak. I'm going to have to start a thread about that one shortly.

Front seal is pretty easy to replace. Installs from the front so you don't have to pull the Timing cover.

 

Pull the Rad and Fan. Remove pulley bolt and remove dampner/pulley assembly/ Examine sealing surface of dampner for any nicks or grooves. If you find a groove worn in surface, you can get a repair sleeve that presses over the damaged area. I think they're called a " Speedy Sleeve ". Common universal repair part.

 

Removing old seal is a bit of a PITA. I normally just use a medium flat blade screwdriver and collapse the outer wall by using a hammer and the screwdriver. Once you collapse the outer wall a bit, it's easy to pry the seal out with a small screwdriver or curved pick. 

 

You can also screw two or three wood screws into the old seal ( #8 ). Then clamp some Vice grips onto the wood screws and yank... alternating between screws. Other ways are to use a small " Paint Can Lid " removing tool and use that to hook under the seal and pry out. There are also purpose built seal removers that you can buy from Tool supply stores... but I've never had to use those. 

 

Do you know if the " oil slinger " is installed behind the timing cover? That helps shield seal from excessive oil splash.

That sucks, but at least it's not the rear seal.  Is it still flush with the front cover?  Are those 2 bolts that go through the cylinder head into the front cover in, maybe that could cause the cover to get uneven? 

 

For what it's worth, I don't have an oil slinger on my 280 and it doesn't leak.  "How to Modify" page 93 says don't install one.

That's interesting about the Oil slinger. Honsowetz gives no reason why.

 

The only thing I can think of is that in the paragraph before, he mentions installing the " Bronze " oil pump/distributor drive gear. I wonder if the Bronze gears are slightly longer and do not use the slinger, Going to have to check into that.

Edited July 12, 20159 yr by Chickenman

That is sorta crazy, "NOTE: Do not install the oil slinger" no explanation why not.  I've read that somehow all the oil lowers your RPMs from the strain on the oil pump. 

Good to hear it sounds like a pretty simple job. I've ordered the part, but I haven't pulled the pulley yet. So I don't know if I have the oil slinger. Is there a safe way to pull off the oulley without a puller? Is it safe to to some light tapping to remove it?

Siteunseen, I haven't pulled the pulley yet so I don't know but I will certainly check that out once I pull it. Thanks for the detailed responses guys.

If you tap it even all the way around it should slide off.  Use a rubber mallet or put some wood in between your hammer and the pulley, you'll knock a chip out for sure going metal on metal.

 

Another thing you're going to have to do is pull the valve cover and put some vise grips or something similar on the cam to lock the motor while you loosen the crank nose bolt, 27mm socket for mine.

Perfect. No extra tools required! The impact gun should get the crank bolt out I'm sure. If it doesn't, I guess the valve cover is coming off!