Yeah.  No bearing.  Which i found pretty amazing.   I guess I'll use the spare cam towers, if they don't work then I can try working these ones.  I'll see what the machine shop suggests.

 

 

Speaking with Colt Cams directly, he's making a custom grind for me and my needs, so I think he will be using my core.  He preferred the B cam as it has a little more meat on it to work with.

Edited September 29, 20159 yr by HuD 91gt

Does your N47 towers have the holes for a spray bar?  Mine did.  You may need to source the block off plates.

Luckily all my heads just use the internal oiling so everything should be interchangeable.

 

 

Here's a few more pictures of some progress.  Mostly cleaning, and making things pretty.  But everyone likes pictures so...

 

 

Parts for the rebuild are growing.  I also ended up going with .040 over ITM pistons as there was a single gouge in cylinder 5 which just wouldn't go away.  There items pictured are ARP head studs, rod and main bolts. Clevitt77 bearings,OSK timing set and some other odds and ends.

 

 

Turbo cover glass beaded

 

My little trailer also acts as a mobile painting platform I can wheel around in my back alley.  It is essential since i'm in an apartment.  Setting up the paint booth in my living room was just taking it's toll on the wood floors, laminate or not.  Some parts being primered in high heat primer.

 

 

curing process in the BBQ

 

 

Cast iron cermamic paint, cured and ready to go.  I'm hoping it lasts.

 

 

I love the polished look on classic vehicles, but I honestly can't get the process down.  Maybe I just don't have the patience.  The black textured paint looks great, but I still wanted the classic look.  I ended up finishing up with this.  Brushed aluminum and polished lettering for that little bit of pop.

 

 

 

 

 

The bottom end is supposed to be ready to go next week.  Then I can start assembly. I have to send out my cam for the regrind, and also have to decide if I want to send the rockers to Delta for a resurface or order some aftermarket new ones.  Both options are risky, but I think i'm leaning towards a resurface.

Edited September 29, 20159 yr by HuD 91gt

As I posted earlier in the thread, I had the turbo oil pan and repaired it. It is pretty decent, but the gasket surface will need some straightening. I spent hours on my current pan and don't really feel like doing it again.

Not to mention, I should be able to sell the turbo pan quite easily. So my SO's father and I ventured off to his old engineering shop (long retired, he's 74 now) and welded a 1/2" npt bung for the turbo oil return, and a 1/4" for an oil temperature sensor on the standard L28 pan. It was his first time welding in 15 years. The first one wasn't very pretty, but I'm pretty happy with round 2. I'd love to have a shop and get him to teach me his skill. He use to build everything from aircraft turbine blades to control panels for the pulp and paper industry.

Edited September 29, 20159 yr by HuD 91gt

Here is awful photo of the repaired oil pan, blasted, primed and beaten. It was literally 60% the height it is now, as the entire 280zx was sitting on it. Managed to knock it back out but didn't notice that single dent until I primed it! I guess that's why body men prime then sand.

Edited September 29, 20159 yr by HuD 91gt

Crush got a new present today. Wideband 02 controller so I can tune this new engine up nicely.

Edited October 5, 20159 yr by HuD 91gt

Installed the Innovate Lc-1 with a brand new oxygen sensor.  What a cool device!

 

 

Now I have question for anyone who has run a wideband with SU's.  I rebuilt them recently and installed SM needles.

 

 

I noticed I had the idle dialled right in.  Idled around 12:5-13:1.   Now everywhere else was extremely lean!!!   I enriched the mixture a turn or so, this brought the idle to around 10.7:1, and when on the gas it hovers in the 12.8-14 range.    When I hit the gas from idle, it immediately goes quite lean (16-17).  I assume this can be fixed with some heavier oil in the SU's.   Is it normal with SM needles to have such a rich idle, to get a decent mixture in the driving RPM?

 

 

 

I also noticed I must have messed up the choke when rebuilding the carbs.  When applying a little bit of choke, the idle actually leans out, and RPM's rise.  I assume I bent the rod too much, which opens the butterfly.   It finally enrichens whit 3/4-Full choke, but then idle is in the 2000-3000RPM range.  This is all when the car was already at operating temp.   Anyone with experience have any input?  I figure a little squeeze on the choke linkage will let less air into the engine, enriching the motor.

Edited October 26, 20159 yr by HuD 91gt

After reading a little more, I had my stoichiometric figures all messed up.   14.7:1 is ideal in perfect conditions.   Perhaps more power can be found in the high 12's, low 13's but 14:1 certainly isn't lean.  I'm going to play around with it tomorrow and see how it goes. I still think my idle is much too lean compared to the rest of the power band.

Edited October 26, 20159 yr by HuD 91gt

Found this thread.  Great reference to somewhat experiencing what i'm seeing. Excited to play with it tomorrow.

 

http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/39045-playing-with-a-wideband/ 

Installed the Innovate Lc-1 with a brand new oxygen sensor.  What a cool device!

Where did you put the sensor?  Any pictures would be appreciated.

 

I'm dying to do this to mine!  I love gauges.

Sorry no pictures. I also forget when working in the car.

The sensor is located about a foot behind the transmission crossmember in my MSA exhausts mid pipe. I just welded it on with a friends welder prior to putting the old L24 in. I was getting way too antzy having the cR off the road so I had to put it back in. It will also slow my engine build which I don't want to rush. I'm currently porting the head myself. Getting a lot of enjoyment out of this process.

For now I'm hiding the wideband guage (innovate xs-16) in the glovebox as it looks like a spaceship.