That's a lot of oil.  One quart / 100 miles.

 

The F54 flattop/N47 is a non-factory combination.  Higher CR, but it also means the PO had the head off.  Was it supposed to be a rebuild or just totally unknown?   Cylinder pressure only shows sealing ring quality, not oil scrapers.  

 

Is the PCV system working?  No chance that you have a blockage, allowing crankcase pressure to build up? 

 

You might check the cam chain for wear, and look for other signs, just to get an idea of if it's an old tired short-block, or a re-ring that might wear in (unlikely,but it's a hope.).

The engine is fairly unknown.  The owner purchased the N47 head, went over it and did a valve grind, with new valve seals.  I don't have any experience with this stuff so I don't exactly know.  But I have been in contact with him recently, and he was quite certain it should run no problem.  The bottom end was used by him in the past, but certainly had some miles on it.

Eurodat, I certainly get smoke in that scenario (Coast, then throttle).  I'd say most of it is in that scenario but I also get it during hard throttle.  The plumbs of smoke come on deceleration though.

If it is torn valve seals from my oil mishap, will this be visible to the eye?

 

 

As for the PCV system.  I just disconnected what I had on the old motor, and connected to this one. Honestly i'd have to do some more reading to know what the PCV system even is.  I can assume it is the pipe running from the block, which connects into the intake/vacuum system?

Edited July 18, 20159 yr by HuD 91gt

Take your time or you'll go nuts trying to figure your best setup option

If he has done a valve job and didn't protect the seals when installing them the valve could cut the seal with the groove in the valve stem. Its hard to believe that would use so much oil.

No mention of a big cam. If it had a high lift came with the standards oil seals. The spring collar can crush the seals and destroy them when the valve is at its lowest.

A thought - if you're sucking oil down the valve guides, the intake valves will be very oily.  Should be visible through the intake ports.  There's a lot of oil flowing over the valve train so that seems like a possibility.  Torn seals are probably visible from the top also, maybe use a magnifying glass to get a good look.

 

Pretty sure I've read some threads about making mistakes on new valve guides and burning lots of oil.  I'll see if I can find them.

Chickenman was nice enough to lend me his spring compressor and give me some advice for last minute parts in the local area.

This weekend I decided to put in one last attempt with the motor before I go and pull it back out.  I replaced all the valve seals, and over the week, had a friend put "seafoam" directly into the cylinders, and let it sit overnight, turn the engine with the plugs out and then squirt some more in.  I also replace the PCV valve.  These were all fairly inexpensive things to do before I tore it all apart.  Sad to say, it did not have much effect.   We pulled the engine (In about 2 hours this time around), and I loaded it up on the trailer to take back home. While we were at it, we took the head off to take a peak inside.  The pictures are pretty self explanatory.  I think the engine sat around a bit outside.  A couple cylinders look great, good cross hatching and clean.  A majority of them not so much.  There is even some pitting at the top of #3.  Not sure what that is from.  I guess I will start the tear down shortly, and bring it to a machine shop and see what they have to say.  I'm hoping I can keep the pistons, and avoid an overbore, but the pitting scares me a bit.

 

 

 

Sorry about the photo's.  My iPhone can't figure out which way is up.  The first three are what we found when we took the head off.   

 

The fourth is "Crush's new home for the next while.  lonely.

 

The last, is the journey home with the other "tow rig".   City Slicker style.

Edited July 27, 20159 yr by HuD 91gt

How hard is it to replace valve seals with a compressor like this?  Isn't this the one to use without removing the cam?

 

Thanks,

Cliff

 

Edited July 27, 20159 yr by siteunseen

That's the one! I'm going to order one myself. Having never done anything other then a valve adjust and not completely understanding how it works in there; the first one took me about 2 hours. By the time I got to the end it was about 10-20 minutes for two valves. It's a pretty neat little device.

i have that tool and it works well - i've gotten plenty of use out of it...

I can't find that anywhere but the UK.  A months shipping time.  Trying some of the bigger vise-grip styles from the loaner program at local chain stores.  They aren't working very well.

 

Where did you get your's Geoff?

It's not longer made, except for the UK company sold under a different brand. Your best bet in the US is the used mArket. Ebay would be the goto.

I ended up using the big "C" compressor from Advance's loaner tool program.  I didn't want to remove the cam at first but it needs cleaning so I changed my mind.  That Sealey tool would be great for changing valve seals with the head on.  Luckily mine is on my workbench.