TomoHawk Posted October 15, 2015 Author Share #13 Posted October 15, 2015 (edited) All I did was to use a scotchbrite disk on a drill to remove the oxidation on the outside. Plus, a l little etching mag wheel cleaner, I think. Edited October 22, 2015 by TomoHawk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomoHawk Posted October 16, 2015 Author Share #14 Posted October 16, 2015 (edited) There seems to be some confusion about this Mopar combustion chamber cleaner. A few other discussion websites stated that this product is a type of FOAM, and the main ingredient is water Edited October 16, 2015 by TomoHawk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted October 22, 2015 Share #15 Posted October 22, 2015 (edited) you can do this stuff yourself if you feel good about it! just put the head at TDC and make sure the valve is closed, and use a steam cleaner and a vacuum. The idea is to steam clean the deposits and then vacuum it with a long attachment to get deep into the port. You can use one of those spark-plug hole attachments for keeping compressed air in the cylinder when changing valve springs to force air into the cylinder prevent any liquid from draining into the cylinder if there is a small air leak. steam clean for 10 seconds, vacuum for 10 seconds. keep repeating until it's all cleaned. you don't need to walnut shell blast anything, just make sure that the valve is closed. you can accelerate the decomposition of the carbon buildup by adding a chemical cleaner to the steam cleaner and going back and forth between carb cleaner and steam cleaner. I have a dedicated steam cleaner that I use simple green / super clean in, and I don't think carbon or varnish has ever survived a blast from that stuff when it's heated. you can also use a tooth brush with a rubberized head (do not use one of those clear acetate toothbrushes. they will fall apart when they come in contact with carb cleaner). I tend to avoid using anything with steel or brass bristles when it has to do with engine stuff. The bristles don't always stay ON the actual brush/wire wheel, and most of the time you won't notice a couple of them missing unless they hit you in the face/neck. Just remember to vacuum right away. Your valves may not be 100% sealing on the head and you want to mitigate the chances of liquified carbon drainage into the cylinder. This is the reason for the valve-spring air-compressor attachment. But not everyone has one. This is the one I have You can get it just as clean as walnut blasting this way, and it takes about the same amount of time. Edited October 22, 2015 by Careless Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siteunseen Posted October 22, 2015 Share #16 Posted October 22, 2015 Off my car, foam oven cleaner worked good, cheap walmart stuff is what I used. A 12 gauge barrel cleaner helped get inside then I used a pressure washer. Cleaned up very well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomoHawk Posted October 22, 2015 Author Share #17 Posted October 22, 2015 The goal is not to decarbonize the cylinder head, ports, or combustion camber. the goal is to remove the baked-on oil 'varnish' inside the intake manifold. I tried the oven cleaner, and it had little or no effect. I looks like the Mopar product is the best possibility of all the suggestions, but is available in only a few places in the U.S. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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