hf240z Posted March 18, 2003 Share #1 Posted March 18, 2003 :stupid: the reason why i am asking this question is i have a bad experience a couple of years back. i am driving a 67 chevy camaro then with a 6 months old imported ball joint (freeway 5) then all of a sudden the new ball joint was pulled-out of the socket....scarynow that i have a 72 datsun i want to do it correct, does any body have any problem installing imported ball joint (made not in U.S. or Japan) the dealer balljoint is $103.78/pc? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2ManyZs Posted March 18, 2003 Share #2 Posted March 18, 2003 MSA's price is only 30 or so each... sounds like someone is trying to get rich of each part they sell....I've used them from MSA, the local Napa store and even a couple from the Advance store. Usually the were Moog if I remember right. Used them on the street and racing with no problems ever..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZCCOR#109 Posted March 18, 2003 Share #3 Posted March 18, 2003 I used some from either MSA or Victoria British. The rubber went bad as soon as they were installed??, just split. When I complained I was sent replacments, but my labor was on me. I have a feeling that they were long in storage or cheap rubber.I'm just waiting a few years to replace. The limited time I use the car should allow a lot of time to expire before a replacment is required.NOTE/ I believe the torque spec for the ball joints is in error. After quite a bit of tightening with a good T wrench, I stopped as it was just too much turning. I felt the bolt end would have broken off. the size/diameter of this bolt looks like a 20 lb effort, and I believe there was something near 40 lbs called for?? not sure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dozer171 Posted March 18, 2003 Share #4 Posted March 18, 2003 that 'clamp bolt' i guess that's what you could call it (the bolt that runs through the split piece of metal that clamps the balljoint pin to the strut assembly) is another torque spec that should be read as 'tight'. don't tighten the living wizz out of it, but, don't leave it loose... know what i mean? the pin coming out of the balljoint as i remember has a detent in it for the bolt, so even if the bolt is slightly loose, the assembly isn't going anywhere unless the bolt falls out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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