EDIT: I think I'm going to buy the big C style.  I just tried a pry bar I have on another head and it worked pretty good.  I might make a wooden pry bar for under the cam, a hammer handle works pretty darn good already.  

 

I'm wanting to get my cam lobes centered with my rocker's pad.  I'm going to try this myself.  I know that will be looked down on but I have more time than money. 

 

The head is off the car and I can't decide which spring compressor I need.  If I get the one that hooks to the cam whats to stop the valves from pushing down?  I have a 1" x 1" or there about block of wood for breaking the collets loose.  But when I get ready to set each rocker up I'm wondering which would be a better compressor.  Please give me some advice on the tool, I need to get one on the way.

 

Here's my two choices so far, without your help.  The head is on my workbench, keep in mind please.

 

Any other recommendations would be great.  

 

#1

 

#2

 

Edited August 2, 20159 yr by siteunseen

For bench work the C-Clamp style is best IMHO.

 

I prefer this style. The fixture that goes around the valve retainer is a lot less bulky. KD tools make a nice one. Lots of mechanical advantage for high pressure double valve springs. Note the length of the handle. KD 380:

 

Edited August 3, 20159 yr by Chickenman

I also have the C clamp style which worked very well with the head off the block.

Thanks guys.  The one Chickenman posted got me to thinking, and it hurts. 

 

The one I was going to get, with the barrel end that goes over the spring retainer would only work if the rocker arm was off.  So that won't work for changing lash pads.  Thank you for that.

Cliff,

 

Wear eye protection.  Those tools are a bit flakey. This combined with oily surfaces can send parts faster than you can blink.

 

If you are using the C clamp and its starts to slip off, stop, loosen then recentre and begin again.  Don't try to make a save.

 

Have fun! 

The C clamp style works well for what you need to do, but in the future, at some point, you will need to pull the springs with the head on the engine and you will wish you had style #1.  When the head is off and I need to pull the springs, I have a plywood "workbench" that has two holes drilled in it that match the end two head bolt holes.  I have a small wood block trimmed to the right size and thickness to hold the valves closed and then I bolt the head to the bench using carriage bolts and woodworking wingnuts.  I can then easily remove the springs and valves.

 

One downside of the style #1 tool is that it is very hard to use with performance valve springs.  It works great on stock springs, but the springs next to the towers do not leave enough room to get a square bite on the spring cap and compress it.  I have always gotten it to work, but not without a lot of swearing.

 

 

 

 

This thread got me thinking. Where did my C-Clamp compressor go. I lent it to someone about a year ago...and had completely forgotten about it. Now I can't remember who I lent it to!!

This thread got me thinking. Where did my C-Clamp compressor go. I lent it to someone about a year ago...and had completely forgotten about it. Now I can't remember who I lent it to!!

I think I just bought your's! 

 

Kidding, I just bought one off ebay for $36.  It's coming from Tennessee, grease and all.  14 day refund if I don't like the condition, it looks to be well used.  The cheapest new one was $85.

 

Edited August 5, 20159 yr by siteunseen