'73 white european lady

[rossiz]

pulling the head is a bit of a chore the first time, mostly because you will probably encounter a few frozen fasteners and it's uncomfortable to go into unknown territory, but it's really pretty straightforward. with the right tools and some help it's an afternoon's work for a shade tree mechanic.

 

i resisted until i warped one (plugged up cooling system) then dove in and got it done. you will learn a whole lot pretty quickly and a re-built head (done right) will really wake up your engine. and of course, there's the pride of knowing you did it yourself coupled with the confidence of knowing it's not going to blow up on you...

[spoofan]

Here are some follow up pictures. I have removed the oil pan and surprisingly found the entire lash pad untouched!

However, there were some small metal pieces - probably from camshaft and/or valve spring retainer (to the right from the release rocker arm).

 

I did find some scores in the cranshaft but I think it is nothing major.

 

 

1) small metal pieces

2) undamaged lash pad

3) some kind of silicone sealant

[siteunseen]

I've never done it before but I've been told the cam can be replaced by jacking the front of the motor up to clear the radiator, if it needs replacing.  I think I would end up pulling the head because of all the other stuff that would have to come off too, like the rocker arms and that retainer that needs to be replaced.

 

I don't like working on the top of the motor in the car, the fenders are too thin and I always forget that. 

[spoofan]

I checked the contact surface between rocker arm and cam lobe - the missing chunk is pretty big so I would rather replace the cam. Used ones are not so expensive.

I have also read somewhere it is enough to jack the front of the engine, so hopefully I will be able to do the repairs w/o removing the head or the engine completely.

[rossiz]

i know it sounds like a lot of work, but you will be much happier if you pull the head.

replacing the cam is a job that is best done on a bench. while not complicated, it requires time and patience to get the rocker wipe patterns right and it's a good bet your top end is full of carbon. get a copy of tom monroe's "how to rebuild your nissan & datsun", a set of new head bolts (courtesy nissan), a top end gasket set and a cam chain tensioner keeper tool, and a valve spring compressor, then clear off a bench, but down a towel and a couple of short pieces of 2x4 to lift it up off the valves and you're in business.

 

or you can do the (kinda) quick and (not really) easy path, replace the cam, hope for the best and maybe be back here in a short while anyway...

[spoofan]

I already have the book so I know what to expect.

Thanks for all the advice. I might go the longer, but safer way. I will just need to fight my impatience to start the engine.

 

Is it really needed to buy tensioner keeper or it is enough to use piece of wood as displayed here?

http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/19659-nerves-about-timing-chain/

 

Valve spring compressor is already on the way.

Edited September 29, 2015 by spoofan

[siteunseen]

That link went to the valve spring compressor you're getting, good choice too.  Remember to fill the bores with cord or air pressure to keep the valves from falling.  

 

I used a long screwdriver handle on my first head removal, made me nervous but it worked.  I think a lot of people make their own out of hardwood like oak, just remember to drill a hole at the top to put your pull cord through.  Don't use a screw in eye bolt.   

 

I bought one of these and it makes all the difference to me, slides in and back out easily, $13.  You'll spend that on wood and your time is worth something, right?

 http://www.amazon.com/Alltrade-648831-Nissan-Timing-Holding/dp/B0002Q8TV4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1443546200&sr=8-1&keywords=datsun+timing+chain+tool

 

[spoofan]

Sry, I did paste wrong link - it is edited now. Well, $13 in US, but to buy it in Europe Â£45.33 (http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0002Q8TV4?keywords=Nissan%20Timing%20Chain%20Holding%20Tool%20for%201970%20to%201983%20Models&qid=1443556955&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1) and that is really expensive. So I might go with the piece of wood.

[LeonV]

I replaced a cam in-situ. It required hood removal, loosening the engine mounts, and jacking up the engine. Be careful with exhaust and various other clearances when jacking up the motor. Depending on your exhaust manifold, you may have to loosen the steering rod that goes from the rack to the coupler.

 

It was a relatively simple and quick job. Dialing in the lash pad sizes for a custom cam is way more time-consuming than the actual cam replacement.

[Patcon]

Make a piece of wood. It will work fine, Oak or maple something hard with few splinters. Like Site said be sure and get a place to tie the rope securely. Pull the head, it is a more reliable way to repair the head with less risk

[grannyknot]

Spoofan, I wouldn't assume that all of the chunks, little bits and tiny flakes of that cam made it to the bottom of the oil pan where you cleaned them out. I would be willing to bet that some of that fractured cam is still hung up in the oil gallery. All it would take is the smallest piece finding it's way to the rod or crank bearing surface and you would be looking at a complete rebuild.

As you mentioned it's best to take the patient route, flush the inside of the block down, make sure there is nothing hiding on the crank.

Chris

[spoofan]

I finally found some time to take out the engine. I was surprised how easy this is! So much space in the engine bay.

 

 

Because "the winter is coming" I will have more time so I decided to strip down the engine and give it a good care whilst it is out of the car. 

Hopefully, there will be no other surprises like before.