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Was attempting to remove the gland nut from a front strut and after a an hour of every trick I have I just forced it with 6' leverage.

A little less then 1/3rd of the threads have peeled back and the gland nut screws down and back up very well.

 

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Nooooo, I don't want to hear that. :cry:

What if, I welded a 1/2" wide strap of a thicker gauge metal around the outside? That would hold the top together...right?

Even at full droop with the car off the ground those gland nut threads are holding the weight of the strut,

brake components, wheel and tire - maybe 60-70lbs The tension from a lowered spring maybe another

10lbs.  80 lbs isn't that much...right?

You could go JY hunting for another cartridge strut with the same diameter from a more common car and then cut and section the new top onto the damaged S30 strut.

Edited by Jeff G 78

When you tighten the gland nut on to the shock body those threads and the strut tube are under tension.  In use, the tensile force doesn't change much because the shock shaft just moves up and down inside the assembly.  Torquing a shock in to the tube will tell the story.  It will probably spread apart and you won't be able to torque it down.

  On 8/5/2015 at 1:04 AM, grannyknot said:

Nooooo, I don't want to hear that. :cry:

What if, I welded a 1/2" wide strap of a thicker gauge metal around the outside? That would hold the top together...right?

Even at full droop with the car off the ground those gland nut threads are holding the weight of the strut,

brake components, wheel and tire - maybe 60-70lbs The tension from a lowered spring maybe another

10lbs.  80 lbs isn't that much...right?

I suggested the gland nut torque just so that you could see the final nail in the coffin.  But, if the rest of the tube is in okay shape, the base and the casting could be used for some of the "coilover" kits being sold.  So don't throw it away, sell it.  Trade it maybe.

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