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[mbentsen]

HI ALL,

I AM IN THE MIDDLE OF FITTING A R32 RB20DET DRIVE TRAIN INTO A 73' 240Z.

I'M A BIT UNSURE WHETHER THE STOCK 240Z FUEL TANK BAFFELS ARE SUFFICIENT FOR NORMAL STREET USE.

RUNNING A NEW COMMODORE VL TURBO FUEL PUMP AND USING THE OLD DRAIN HOLE FOR FUEL EXIT, I'M HOPING THE OEM BAFFELS SHOULD BE SUFFICIENT.

THE OLD EXIT IS USED AS A RETURN LINE. THE OLD RETURN LINE IS SOLDERED CLOSED.

THE TWO BAFFELS ARE APPROX 200MM APPART WITH THE EXIT IN THE MIDDLE.

ANOTHER CONCERN IS THAT I WOULD CLOSE UP THE BAFFLE GAPS BY USING POR15 SLOSHING FUELTANK SEALING PAINT.

TO ME IT LOOKS LIKE THE FUEL ESCAPES THROUGH THE TINY GAP BETWEEN THE SPOTWELDS OF THE BAFFELS TO THE FUEL TANK.

SHOULD I CUT OPEN THE TANK, AND DRILL SOME SMALL HOLES INTO THE BOTTOM OF THE BAFFELS, JUST IN CASE?

WHAT ABOUT THE EVAPOARATIVE POLUTION GEAR (CHARCOAL CANISTER), ANY SUGGESTIONS HOW TO FIT IT?

CHECK OUT THE FRESHLY DOWNLOADED PHOTOS IN THE GALLERY SECTION.

REGARDS,

MICHAEL

[Ivan]

Originally posted by mbentsen

THE OLD EXIT IS USED AS A RETURN LINE.

Is this as opposed to getting a surge tank?

[mbentsen]

Yes, that was the idea Ivan.

I didn't want a external surge tank with the associated low pressure feeding fuel pump.

I am trying to keep this car as simple as possible.

My thoughts were that the cavity between the baffles, where the old exit tube sucked from, would work as a small surgetank.

I think the volume is less that 8 liters between the baffles, so a stable supply should be possible down to say 5 liters.

The other option is of course to cut the tank open and install a internal surgetank.

What do think?

Rgds,

Michael

[Ivan]

don't know much on the inner workings of the 240z fuel tanks but it sounds like a good idea if it works. How safe is that, I mean whats the chances of hitting something that knocks that line, especially if it's lowered?

Are there any '75 or '76 280Z's in Australia? they have built in surge tanks and fit straight in 240's.

Another idea is a fuel cell, bit expensive though.

[mbentsen]

Sadly Australia never saw the 280Z, so that option is out.

Knocking of the line does worry me.

However I have used a piece of threaded tubing to join the plumbing 90 degree corner to where the plug used to be.

Then the hole thing is soldered together with and a support soldered to the tube as well.

To be even more on the safe side, I am considering making a shield or brackets to protect it even more.

I have seen more dangerous designs, including hoses underneath and the like, but you are right, it is a concern.

By the way, I am only going to lower it 25-30 mm.

The legal clearance in NSW Australia is 100mm.

Michael

[Ivan]

it's 100mm here as well, is that from it's lowest location? my oil sump is about 20mm - 30mm lower than what would normally be the car's lowest point, if that matters it means it's 20mm heigher than it could be?

[mbentsen]

If the rules in NZ are the same as Australia, which is very likely, I'm afraid that it its taken from the lowest point on the car.

If I recall the stock clearance is 150mm, so you would end up with the same height as my car.

How come your sump is that low? What engine is in the car?

[Ivan]

RB25DET, with 200zr oil sump, it is the lowest the engine will go and I might be able to raise the engine a bit but I'm looking for excuses to not, like my brother's camaro is 65mm off the ground and he doesn't seem to have WOF problems.

[mbentsen]

Hi Ivan,

What does WOF mean?

My RB20DET's sump lines up with the bottom of the cross member.

I have modified, read cut and welded, the RB20 sump to retain the same capacity and provide a safe clearance to the oil galleries.

I would love to know your distance from the center of the crankshaft pulley to the bottom of your crossmember.

Maybe a RB25 is different with respect to the oil gallery height?

Maybe the ZR200 sump is just higher?

Love to know the answers.

Michael

[sjcurtis]

For the baffle and fuel line problem, select a late Australian 260z tank, use the standard plumbing configuration, you will find the outlet and return are the same size. This setup should be more to your liking . I also installed a second supply line to replace my 73 narrow return.

my 2c

Steve:classic:

[Ivan]

sorry, WOF = Warrent of Fitness, every 6 months we need to take our cars to a garage that has a certified WOF certifier working there who goes over the car and check's it's safety / compliance with law.

I have removed the engine in preperation for painting but I will take a guesstamate at the height to the crank tonight. From memory the bottom of the sump (which pretty much the bottom of the block + rails) is about 10 - 15mm off the top of the cross member (on the LH side) and the engine is on about 10deg angle.

I originally modified, read cut and welded the rb25det sump but it got warped a little and before trying to fix this I found out about the 200zr sump (kind of expensive though - $650NZD all up - including new 200zr oil pickup). - it looks like less capacity but people are using it for RB26DETT's so it must do the trick.

This sump has the sump part at the very back of the sump and bolts on to the rb25's and rb20's (was originally used on rb20's), I don't think it was any differnet in height to the original one but my original one might be different to yours. I will measure this tonight and let you know

Just off the subject a bit more - apparently the mounts off this car can be used unmodified to mount the engine (if you are happy with it being a little high and forward) companied by the original z gearbox mount and driveshaft off some other car makes a RB conversion straight bolt in.

Back to the subject - sjcurtis: does the later 260z have better baffling?

[mbentsen]

Hi Steve,

Does the suggested late 260Z tank have a real surgetank inside, improved baffels or simply just larger in and outlet lines?

Michael

PS What sort of drive train are you running in yours?