Wouldn't be too surprising if those missing parts were either borrowed or stolen.  It happens when cars sit for a long time. The engine and cooling system might be fine.  Check the oil for moisture, along with the fuel tank.  The fuel tank probably is full of residue and "varnish" from whatever was originally in there, even if it stayed dry.  The engine might have some surface rust so squirting oil around inside the cylinders is a good idea.The tires are dry-rotted probably, but they might offer a clue to age.  Get the number from the sidewall and post it.  There are codes for later tires.

 

The injectors might be fine too, but the hoses are probably dry-rotted also.  They tend to split lengthwise.  Same with the fuel rail hoses.  But if they've been inside for years they might be okay for a while.  The injectors might have residue inside also that will take time to dissolve and flush away.

 

There's a ton of tiny details to look at before you start it and drive it.

Edited August 13, 20159 yr by Zed Head

Yeah I'll get those pictures up tomorrow night for sure! The miles on the odometer say bout 60k. I didn't know if there was a way to tell if it had rolled over the 100k or not.

And the only other back story I have is that there was a tint sticker across the windshield that says Florida aeronautical university, and a green sticker that says okaloosa county sheriff posse on the side window. I didn't pull it out of the barn myself, bought it off the guy who did.

When you look for an AFM make sure it has the full seven pins in the plug. You will need them all for the ECU. The later version miss two for the fuel pump switcb in the AFM. They changed somewhere around August 77.

With all the things that are missing, I wonder if the motor may be locked up?  If I had a non running car I'd probably let somebody take some parts they needed.

 

After you take the plugs out and squirt some oil in the cylinders you can put a 27mm socket on the big bolt inside the front pulley and try and turn the motor.  Take the valve cover off and oil the cam stuff first though. 

 

They turn clockwise, looking from the front, towards the driver's side. 

Edited August 13, 20159 yr by siteunseen

  On 8/13/2015 at 1:21 AM, wal280z said:

and now, a shameless self--plug...... be sure and download the wiring diagram for the '77 (in color) here (go to the end of the post and download the latest version) http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/11727-color-wiring-diagram-for-280z/

 

I'll add an independent plug for Wayne's wiring diagram. It's better than sliced bread.

 

If you have a 77 and don't yet have a copy of this thing, you are doing yourself a huge disservice. It's too late now (since it's been out there in the public domain for so long), but this diagram is so good, that you should have to pay for it.

 

So glad we don't have to, but we all should have. 

I'll have to grab a picture of the door vin tonight after work.

The chain hanging over the clutch pedal and the long black zip ties around the wiring bundle aren't stock Nissan parts.  The car is looking more typical.

Your pedals look look sorta worn, could be 160,000?

Yeah, that car has been messed with in too many ways to count. Nothing insurmountable and certainly not unusual. Most used Z's are like that.

 

Just always makes me wonder what kind of problem the previous owner we chasing.

 

 

When you get so far as to trying to start the engine, search for a thread with the tittle that goes something like "wakening the beast". Its a good "how to" thread on starting an engine thats been sitting for a loooong time.

Congrats and good luck! I am not that much further ahead of you at the moment....

 

http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/50908-1976-280z-restoration-project/

Edited August 13, 20159 yr by wheee!