260z no start once hot ..all electrical gone when hot

[theatriks]

OK guys I have a strange issue ....i have a late year 1974 datsun 260z ....its got new wires cap rotor...new starter and battery...and new coil.

 

 

When it has been sitting and cool i can start the car right up......

 

Once i start driving it and it heats up after i shut it off .....it doesnt start ...as a matter of fact i loose all electrical power not even the door chime works !!!!...no click ...nothing!!

 

After the car gets a chance to cool down ....it will start right up!!!!

 

 

Has anybody experienced this strange problem im having .

 

Thanks

[siteunseen]

Could be a bad ground?  Was it doing it before you added all the new stuff?  Check the battery's ground at the starter.

[siteunseen]

[theatriks]

So by ground do you mean the negative battery terminal wire coming from the bottom starter bolt to the negative battery terminal ?.....No this did not happen before i changed everything.

 

Thanks

 

Rob

[theatriks]

ok does it make a difference what bolt im putting that ground on i have it on the bottom bolt ?

[theatriks]

maybe cleaning the bolts up real good will help because i forgot to mention that my battery cables are brand new as well

[siteunseen]

Not too sure about the bottom bolt?  Never tried that one. 

I think I would put a voltmeter on the battery and see what it's showing while running.  Should read 14 volts or close.

 

Cleaning all the grounds will help and doesn't cost anything.

Cleaning the ground connectors is what I mean.  Read through this, it's for fuel injection but you'll get the idea.  http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electricalconnections/index.html

 

Edited September 3, 2015 by siteunseen

[theatriks]

Thats a helpful write up ...thanks.

[siteunseen]

Thats a helpful write up ...thanks.

I wish I new enough to take credit for all he knows!!

That is from the brain of a member that goes by Blue. I'm just the middle man and president of his fan club here in Alabama. President vice president and secretary. I fold up the chair after meetings too.

[beermanpete]

Another thing to check is the fusable links and the ammeter shunt connections. They get loose and corroded with time. When the fail the whoel car can shut down. Clean them and carefully tighten if nessecary. Don't squeeze to hard as they tend to get britlle with age.

 

There are two fusable links located on the firewall above the starter. This is small white/milky cube (if the cover is still intact) with four large wires on the bottom and two short loops on the side opposite the large wires. Two of the large wires are white with red trace. Not sure about hte others.

 

The ammeter shunt is on the right side frame rail under the alternator. It is a rectangle box with two large white wires (red trace on one or both) and two small wires (red I think). If your ammeter is not working open the shunt housing and check the fuses. There are two 1 amp or 2 amp fuses inside which feed the ammeter.

[theatriks]

Ok so it turns out it was a fuse in my fusible link box this whole time ....

 

 

now to figure out whats melting this guy....ive started by buying a new fuse holder and fuse and see how quickly it happens again ....im wondering if its the new starter i put in ...because thats the only change ive made along with a new coil .

Edited September 16, 2015 by theatriks

[beermanpete]

What is the rating on the fuse? Why is a fuse being used to replace a fusible link?