Sealing an oil pan

[siteunseen]

Did you guys rough up the pans lip? Should it be free of paint? Luckily, well unfortunately to me, it's STILL on the motor stand. Could I put a thin layer of aviation sealer on the block, position the gasket and wait to let it set up then coat the exposed side and lay the pan down. Put the corner bolts in finger tight then work from the center out towards the corners? Or start in the center working my way out? Thank you all for helping, this is my last gasket!

[siteunseen]

That's pretty much what I've already been told so I'm sorry.

My main concern is where to start with the bolts. I have a little itty bit of anxiety if you can't tell. 

[Mark Maras]

 I wouldn't let one side set up before torqueing. djwarner tightens in a circular pattern. I've always treated them like a head gasket. tighten from the center out. I doubt the direction is as important as clean surfaces, no dimples and most important. GRADUALLY tighten them but don't over tighten.

DJwarner, What is the torque torque spec. for pan bolts?

[siteunseen]

7 to 10 pounds according to Tom Monroe's book. I don't have a small torque wrench just do them gradually by feel. Never dimpled one so far. Why do the later cars have those flat steel pieces that go on the outside? Neither 240 I've disassembled have those.

[Chickenman]

Those flat steel plates are to distribute the load on the gasket more evenly and to prevent dimpling the pan rail. They help prevent leaks.  ( #33 ) 11124-P6500 and ( #37 ) 11123-N4200

Edited January 23, 2016 by Chickenman

[Chickenman]

Small Block Chevy motors use full length pan re-enforcing rails. I don't know why Datsun only used half length rails.

Edited January 23, 2016 by Chickenman

[Mark Maras]

 Weight is my guess. Judging by the unverified tales i've heard, they were trying to shave lbs. from the proto type and were determined to trim the car down to 2400 lbs. Or is this just another fabrication that has been passed around so long that it has become "fact"?

[djwarner]

I used Tom Monroe's book reference as well. Yes, I used a circular pattern after running the bolts down finger tight.

BTW I just checked the Harbor Freight website. Even without a coupon, using the usual 20% off, you can walk out of at store with a 1/4" torque wrench for under $20. If you watch for coupons, maybe only half that.

[siteunseen]

I'd have to drive quite a distance to HF. Maybe I'll check Sears for a craftsman,  they're right down the road.

This is going turn out to be a "blessing in disguise"! I remembered putting the bottom end together right after the biggest loss of my life, so far, my best friend Jelly had died. I dealt with the loss by drinking and wrenching. Bad deal.

I'll report more tomorrow when I'm using my laptop. Country boy fingers on this phone don't work very well.

Thanks again guys, y'all are the best!

[cbuczesk]

I cleaned the surfaces. That's it. There probably wasn't any paint on the surfaces but if there was I would have left it. I probably put in some corner bolts since they're easy to access and then start putting in the rest. Once they're in then I go around in a circle tightening them little by little. Does it always leak in the same spot(s)? If so you might want to really check those areas for damage, chips, cracks, etc.

Chuck

 

[Diseazd]

I'm a little late on this thread, but I'll throw in my two cents worth. Getting the dimples flat is the key. Then, I put a little sealant (and I mean a little) where the front and rear bearing caps meet the block.....especially where the rear seal sticks are.....that's it....no more sealant. Then, I like the cork (it conforms to any low or high spots).....keep the torque to factory specs and re torque to those specs every 2 or so weeks for a couple months. None of my five Z's leak a drop. I find the premium gasket that MSA sells is too hard to conform to the irregularities of a Z oil pan. IMHO

[siteunseen]

18 hours ago, djwarner said:

I used Tom Monroe's book reference as well. Yes, I used a circular pattern after running the bolts down finger tight.

BTW I just checked the Harbor Freight website. Even without a coupon, using the usual 20% off, you can walk out of at store with a 1/4" torque wrench for under $20. If you watch for coupons, maybe only half that.

I found one at Sears for $50, HF $18.  Looks like I'll get some windshield time this morning!

Actually when I first saw them they have "20 to 200" written in the description, damn, can't use that I thought.  INCH POUNDS!!! 

So for 7 foot pounds I want to set one at 84", right?