both times i've ordered the "competition" gasket from msa - it's synthetic (not cork) and a little thicker than the stock one, i think around $15 or so. both times (two different engines) it sealed perfectly with no leaks. the first engine was still in the car, so i cleaned best i could with a rag and solvent, but not perfect (the pan was cleaned and straightened) the second was a rebuild on a stand so much cleaner. 

 

not sure if i'm just lucky or if this gasket is the ticket, but so far so good. 

both times i've ordered the "competition" gasket from msa - it's synthetic (not cork) and a little thicker than the stock one, i think around $15 or so. both times (two different engines) it sealed perfectly with no leaks. the first engine was still in the car, so i cleaned best i could with a rag and solvent, but not perfect (the pan was cleaned and straightened) the second was a rebuild on a stand so much cleaner. 

 

not sure if i'm just lucky or if this gasket is the ticket, but so far so good. 

Is it reddish in color?  Ity looks like a good one but I'm going with Nissan as much as I can, thanks Dizeased for that suggestion.  i just got all the heater hoses the other day for half what everybody else is charging, I give the Nissan parts guy food on Saturdays when he's there by himself.  He gives me the lowest price he can get away with.  I'll trade my buddy's chicken for cheaper OE parts, he don't care anyway. 

 

I got a bunch of parts with a car I bought and have no idea what's what.  It doesn't look like the cork gaskets on my SU float chamber lids. 

Mine has a fiber gasket with a LIGHT coating of RTV on  both sides.  No leaks.

both times i've ordered the "competition" gasket from msa - it's synthetic (not cork) and a little thicker than the stock one, i think around $15 or so. both times (two different engines) it sealed perfectly with no leaks. the first engine was still in the car, so i cleaned best i could with a rag and solvent, but not perfect (the pan was cleaned and straightened) the second was a rebuild on a stand so much cleaner. 

 

not sure if i'm just lucky or if this gasket is the ticket, but so far so good. 

This is a timely thread.  I thought I had a rear seal leak but now it looks like the pan gasket.  Surprising how much oil can build up around the perimeter of the pan and slowly leak out over time.

 

So did you use no RTV or sealant at all, just the gasket?  Dry on a clean surface? 

 

Hylomar Blue is  good stuff and stays pliable.  Stays pliable so no need to worry about the V part of RTV.  The transmission rebuild guys love it.  http://www.hylomarsealant.com/

I read about permanently gluing the gasket to the pan with RTV or similar then using a non curing on the gasket to block... it was a racer's tip to facilitate easy removal, inspection, re-installation,

Edited September 14, 20159 yr by Blue

the first "competition" pan gasket i got from msa was several months back when i was dealing with the original engine and the front cover ordeal - pulled the pan, cleaned it up and replaced the gasket from under the car. it was a reddish color, thick and synthetic.

 

the second one, also from msa, went into my rebuild and felt like the same material but it was green - not sure about the color difference, but they both sealed perfectly the first time.

I found it! Honsowetz:

 

Glue compressed fibre, reusable pan gasket to oil pan with weatherstrip adhesive.

 

Coat the block side of the gasket with antiseize compound.

As others have pointed out, pan and block prep are essentail. Pan should be as straight as possible with any " dimples " ( caused by over tightening ) flattened with a hammer and dolly.

 

All traces of oil must be removed from both mating surfaces. That means oil pan and block. Acetone, Brake Cleaner or Lacquer thinner ( My favorite ) are what you use. Do not use solvent or piant thinner as these contain petroleum distilants ( oils ),

 

Hylamar is good to coat on one side if you plan on removing the parts often as some racers do. It's desogned for machined surfaces so only use Hylamar on the block side of the gasket and Permatex Aviataion Form - A - Gasket on the other.

 

For a street machine Permatex Aviation Form - A - Gasket can be used on both sides of the gasket. I've never had  any gasket leak when Aviation cement is used ( with proper prep work ) . It's worked for me for over 40 years. Both for street use and racing. Some guys  ( mainly Drag eRacers ) don't like it because it can be difficult to get off. If you're dropping oil pans all the time to change bearings etc, it can be a PITA. But on a street car you want to do the job ONCE.

 

Here is the Technical info on Permatex Aviation Form - A - Gasket. BTW, the " Aviation " part is no small deal. It is certified for Aviation use which is a good thing in anyones books:

 

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&ved=0CCQQFjABahUKEwi84de8y_bHAhUFOIgKHWmBDrQ&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.permatex.com%2Fcomponent%2Fdocuments%2F%3Fview%3Dtds%26format%3Draw%26filename%3D80019.pdf%26market%3Dautomotive&usg=AFQjCNGlUa-R065BuHrt4vMgonIf2y8kmg&cad=rja

 

The RTV on both sides didn't work well for me, I put down a very thin film and it had dried before I could get the pan situated.  Now I'm getting ready to try again with a little thicker gasket like the one Rossi used, from MSA I'm pretty sure but it was with a bunch of other stuff I got with a car I bought.

I'm going to use the Aviation sealer, like above, in the four corners on the pan.  I think I'll use golf tees in all the holes to keep it lined up while I'm putting in the bolts.  Also I think I'll rough up the paint on the pans lip, the first time is was slick as glass and the gasket slid around.  I'm not planning on using anything on the block side.

If anybody can add to my plan, or take away?, I would appreciate it. I still have to paint the pan the right color, BLACK, so it'll be another day or so; it's too cold outside to spray.  This 2.4 motor is wearing me down!  The 2.8 I did a few years ago was much easier and my first car motor. 

Thanks,

Cliff

I've done several over the last few years and none have leaked. I used Felpro gaskets and either RTV or most recently Edelbrock Gasgacinch 9300. I make sure that the pan surface is flat. They're often over-tightened making the surface wavy. I put the sealer on the block, install the gasket, put sealer on the pan and set it in place. Then I lightly thread the bolts into the block. I go around the pan ~4 times gently snugging down the bolts until they feel equally tight but not too tight. It works for me.

Chuck

 

I did as Chuck did except I had a cork gasket. If you have the block inverted on an engine stand, the gasket sealant on the block will hold the gasket in place while you position the pan. With no studs protruding, you can easily apply sealant to the other side of the gasket before mounting the pan. 

I took care to flatten the dimples on the pan and checked for flatness with a feeler gauge and a straight edge.

Considering you can usually buy a 1/4" torque wrench cheap at harbor freight, using one will go a long way towards preventing re-dimpling the pan. I went around tightening every other bolt, and then repeating until the torque wrench showed no additional tightening. This took at least 4 cycles, but I lost count about then.

Now if you were attempting to replace the gasket while the engine was in the car, that would be a whole other can of worms.

 To solve the problem of slipping gaskets on small block Chevy valve covers, we would tie the gasket to the cover, thru the mounting holes with thread. Just cut off the exposed thread after torqueing.