Thanks to all for your response.  I'm clear now...much appreciated.

I used the MSA comp gasket, no sealant. Two things, don't over torque it, and if there is a leak, it maybe the side seals, they look a lot like a pan leak in the rear of the pan.

If you keep having leaks, consider replacing them. You can check them easy if you are doing a clutch (rear main and side seal leaks are easy to see with the flywheel off).

But if you don't want to pull the flywheel just to check you can do the side seals with just the pan off. Its a bit of a PITA but not that bad. Replacing them solved my "pan" leak.

+1 - Don't over torque the bolts.

Chances are someone already did. If so, it may leave the flange distorted at some or all of the bolt holes. Check the top surface and make sure it's flat. The metal is fairly soft and if it has been over torqued, the top may be mushroomed up a bit at some or all of the bolt holes. If it's not flat, tap the bolt holes down lightly with a hammer to get the top surface as even as you can. (rest the flange on the edge of your work bench and tap lightly - work your way around each side)

I've always thought that the stiffener plates were too soft.  If they were stiffer or thicker, they might do a better job of keeping the pan from dimpling.

Jeff, Wow... I was just thinking the exact same thing yesterday!

I'm putting stuff aside trying to get ready for a plating run and I was messing with some of those stiffeners. I've got a couple different sets and they are all bent and rusty. I was thinking it would be really cool to have some made from a thicker material and maybe even stainless.

And if someone was going to make custom pieces, would it be advantageous to make them longer than the stock ones to pickup more (all?) of the oil pan mounting bolts?

43 minutes ago, Captain Obvious said:

And if someone was going to make custom pieces, would it be advantageous to make them longer than the stock ones to pickup more (all?) of the oil pan mounting bolts?

They should be super easy to cut if someone has access to a waterjet or a CNC plasma cutter.  I really don't see why you couldn't make them go the whole way around the pan.  I used to belong to a membership-type shop, but they went under last year.  This would have been really easy to make there.  

Jeff, That's what I was thinking as well. For ease of installation (and raw material yield), I don't think I would make it all one piece, but I can't come up with any reason why you wouldn't (or couldn't) want extra support for every oil pan bolt.

I'm also thinking that it wouldn't need to be exactly like the original two pieces. There are geometry options that would make it easier to produce.

Anyway, I'm just musing here and wishing I had access to a water jet too! Haha!

So here's a question:  Is the Nissan L24 the only engine of its era whose stamped-steel oil pan needed reinforcement plates to keep the mounting flange from deforming during installation? 

Another question while we're talking about such things... I've noticed that they used a number of different designs for the heat shield between the pan and the exhaust. I've got three different versions here. Top two are one style, third is different, and bottom is different again:

Question for the Z trivia guys... Anyone know the lineage? What year(s) used which style?

The top two style are on my 78


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Another question while we're talking about such things... I've noticed that they used a number of different designs for the heat shield between the pan and the exhaust. I've got three different versions here. Top two are one style, third is different, and bottom is different again:

Question for the Z trivia guys... Anyone know the lineage? What year(s) used which style?

Looks like an oil pan hoarder to me!



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk