Reluctor and other distributor parts

[Gary L]

I'm "refreshing" my distributor on my 76, California model, with new cap. rotor, wires, etc. I see the pick-up coil is also available from a couple of different sources, but I can't find the anyone who still carries the reluctor. Mine is sightly rusty and I'd like to replace it. Or doesn't that matter and these usually don't need to be replaced which might be why they stopped supplying them? Or are most people upgrading to more modern electronic distributors? I haven't checked my air gap yet because I've got to get the right size gauge.  The reason I'm doing this is because when I accelerate it sometimes seems to "hiccup" a little so I'll also be checking to make sure the timing advance is working, however I do that?

 

Gary

[siteunseen]

Here's something to look at, you might find a part number,

http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributorrebuild/index.html

 

I bought one for a ZX off amazon.com for around $100.  No cap or rotor button though but that was only $20 from a local chain parts store.  

 

If you take the cap off and suck on the vacuum line going to the distributor you can kind of see the plates move but actually you'll feel it better than seeing.  You can tell the difference in your breathing.  Sucking will make it move until it hits the sides, then it'll stop and you can't suck any more.  

 

Gigga Dee

Edited September 13, 2015 by siteunseen

[Zed Head]

The only part that matters on the reluctor is the very edge of each tooth.  That's all the pickup coil sees.  You can shine up the rest but it won't affect performance.

 

I'd be leery of any aftermarket reluctor because the precision of the timing depends on the precision of the machining.  I'd rather have a rusty factory reluctor than a new aftermarket reluctor.

 

Another way to check the breaker plate vacuum advance is to just twist it with your hands.  But eyeball the edges first for rust.  If there's any at all, best to take it out and clean it up.  The balls will get stuck and the bearing holder will break.  Not good.

 

A common problem on the EFI cars is a lean mixture from the ECU.  Adding the potentiometer to the coolant temperature circuit will help.  Here's a good link, many do it.  It's reversible if it doesn't work. 

 

http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tempsensorpot/index.html

[Gary L]

I sometimes forget about the following link with part numbers 

 

listhttp://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsunS30/DatsunZIndex.aspx

 

and for the 280z distributor

 

http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/DatsunZIndex/Electrical/Distributor/280Z/tabid/1636/Default.aspx

 

I usually first check on NAPA's web site, then Rockauto, Autozone, etc., but I see the OEM reluctor is still available from NissanPartsDeal.com

 

http://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-reluctor-set~22115-n4200.html

 

And the price isn't bad unlike some of the other more major OEM parts.

 

Otherwise, I agree that I'd rather stay with an original OEM part if possible rather than some aftermarket generic.

 

I'll try both methods of checking my advanced.

 

I've seen that article regarding the potentiometer which is a pretty cool trick.

 

Thanks

Gary

[Gary L]

I'm not very familiar with these distributors, but when I suck on the vacuum port I can't see anything moving. Nor can I move anything with my fingers. Unless I'm looking at this wrong, my distributor is froze up.

 

I mentioned the reluctor is a little rusty, may be there is more rust that just that.

 

So how hard is it to do a rebuild on these distributors or should I go with a remanufactured distributor or a new one which is expensive. For example,

 

http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1976/nissan/280z/engine_electrical/ignition_distributor.html

 

http://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-distributor~22100-n7700.html

 

To be honest, I don't have the $300 plus for a new one. Has anyone tried one of the remanufactured ones from A1-Cardone for example? Or had good luck with some other remanufacturer?

 

Then as mentioned above, I'm not familiar with these, so these may seem like stupid questions, but -- Isn't there a sprocket on the end that meshes with a drive, do I need to have the engine on TDC #1 cylinder before pulling the old one, etc? Does anyone have a good simple write-up for changing the distributor? Or know of a short video?

 

The last time I changed a distributor it was on my Bronco II -- It had a sprocket on the end, you had to start quite a few degree away from where you wanted it because it spun as it when in and meshed, the engine had to be marked for TDC, etc. So I'm hoping this is simple, but I'd rather ask than make a lot of extra work for myself.

 

Thanks

Gary

[siteunseen]

Here's the write up for changing to the ZX distributor, it shows the basic steps you'll need to just pull the old one off.  http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor/index.html

 

I've got the Cardone remanufactured one and it's like new, so yes they are fine.  Here's one from Advance with a 30% coupon code, TRT30.

 

 

Cardone Distributor - Electronic - Remanufactured
Part No: 31-618

 

Warranty:  LIMITED LIFETIME REPLACEMENT

• Exact Fit for your 1977 Nissan 280Z

 

x Remove

Update

Pick Up At

Ship to Home

$101.99

$71.39

TRT30:-$30.60

 

Product Subtotal:

$71.39

[Zed Head]

If you do find that the internals of your 76 distributor are rusted and gummed up, the ZX distributor is a good option also, because it uses a high energy ignition control module and coil (so you'd want a newer coil too, projects always grow...).  1976 still uses a low energy coil and ballast resistor.

 

But if the guts are in good shape, it might be worth keeping.  I marked up a picture to show another simple way to check the breaker plate.  But, they are almost always rusty and need lubrication.  They are super easy to take out and replace and you'd have to work to get it in backwards (no offense to those that have managed to do that).  It will only install the right way or 180 off, no gear teeth to worry about.  It will only go in 180 off if the tang and slot are worn, and you can't distinguish the big half moon from the small one..

 

Take the big screw out, it might be very tight, gently loosen the vacuum module, it might be very tight, and gently pry it out part way with a screwdriver.  It might be very tight.  The breaker plate with the pickup coils on it should rotate.  But, if you pull too hard you might break the bearing holder under the plate and screw things up.  So it's dangerous.

 

Were it mine, I'd loosen that big screw while it's mounted in the engine, give the module a little twisting to break it free, then remove the distributor and take a good look.  The breaker plate comes off easily also, and you can check the centrifugal weights.

 

The other way to check operation though, is with a timing light.  Connect intake vacuum directly to the module port and see what happens to timing.

 

 

Edited - backward arrow.

Edited September 14, 2015 by Zed Head

[Gary L]

Thanks everyone. At this point I think I'll try the easy route and just order a remanufactured A1 Cardone from Advance Auto at that price. If I have problems I'm sure I'll be posting again for help.

 

Gary