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Paint Selection


gwri8

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The body work is getting close to finished so I'm starting to look at paint for my 280.  The original color code is 240 Racing Green (metal flake) and I will probably keep that color. I will not be the one painting.

 

The question is, what type of paint should I choose?  Base with a Clear coat or Urethane /Acrylic? I'm not sure which will look better with a metal flake paint and which will be the tougher of the two.

 

It is not going on a show car, but it is not a daily driver either. I do drive it and people do look at it, you know what I mean?

 

Anyone have an opinion on types of paint and why? I'm all ears (or maybe eyes since this is a post).

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Use a good brand like PPG. Base/clear will be better than just urethane but it'll cost more. I painted my 260Z about 10 years ago in single stage urethane Daytona Blue. It's pearl metallic and has held up without any issues. The car's garage kept and not driven much. If cost doesn't matter then go with a good base/clear.

 

Chuck

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Like Chuck said, use a good brand and use a Base/Clear.  single stage paint is cool but doesnt look nearly as nice as a base/clear.  My 260 is painted with PPG with extra clear coat and im glad it got that extra coat.  My 4 year old son (at the time) saw me using a electric buffer and then decided to help by hitting the other side with a wire brush mounted on my drill because to a 4 year old thats the same thing.  That buffed right out

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Since you're not going for a ZCCA Stock Class look, here's another BIG vote for 2-stage.

 

Appearance: clear coat will give a big "pop" to the underlying color.  Buffed and waxed - grab your cheap sunglasses (apologies to ZZ Top).

Protection: the additional layer of clear is a barrier protecting the color coat from wear, swirl marks, light scratches, ...etc.

Maintenance: the clear can easily be re-worked if needed, not so the metallic base coat.

 

Earlier this year I noticed some irregularities on my hood when viewed in a reflection - very small hair-width depressions in a close pattern almost like orbital sander marks.  Most important, a fellow club member who has done some ZCCA judging spotted them and said that could be a judging problem at ZCON.  I showed it to my paint shop and he said it was likely some shrinkage in the primer or base coat that later became visible in the clear coat.  Repainting a four-year old hood would be a color-match nightmare.  The solution: color-sand the hood and re-clear it.  When buffed out, the fresh clear had filled any remaining depressions.  Problem solved!

 

Hope this helps your decision process.

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Thanks for the replies everyone. I do like shiny things (I was probably an Otter in a previous life) and I know clear will buff out great.  

 

I guess my only concern would be the clear peeling,  We've all seen this on other cars, even some with factory paint and I do not want to experience that a few years from now. The fellow who I've contacted about paint said he could do a base with 2 coats clear and that he uses Sherwin Williams paint.

 

Paint is probably a few weeks away.  In my mind I'll go back and forth with the single stage vs. base/clear in that time.  Many beers will have been consumed between now and then. But right now it looks like the base/clear is the preference. 

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  • 4 weeks later...

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