Aluminum clear coat

[siteunseen]

I never put it in an oven but I can say this, it worked great during the rebuilding.  All the oil and assembly lube wiped right off.  Through my mistakes I had to pull the head and the front cover off.  They got dirty but after a wipe down they look like new again.  That's the Eastwood bare metal clear coating.  I don't think they'll ever get yellow, just a feeling of mine though.  I sandblasted the aluminum and it soaked it up like a sponge, I quit applying it when it would just lay on top so it's penetrated down into the aluminum.  Fingers crossed!

[grannyknot]

22 hours ago, Matthew Abate said:

Whatever happened with this?

/M

Glisten - pretty much perfect under all conditions

Sharkhide - ditto except it will not tolerate petroleum distillates

[Matthew Abate]

Awesome. Thanks. Now I can copy you.

/M

[Careless]

On 2/22/2016 at 7:23 PM, grannyknot said:

Glisten - pretty much perfect under all conditions

Sharkhide - ditto except it will not tolerate petroleum distillates

Hi Chris,

So the Glisten will tolerate petro distillates just fine? Can the Glisten be "repaired" or recoated on the spot without total removal? I think I remember you telling me it was a 2 step process? 

I did notice that Sharkhide will not tolerate SOME aggressive cleaners. Brake Cleaner brands are hit or miss. Some remove it, some don't. Some make it sticky. Can't make a correlation between chlorinated or chlorine-free types, as I had mixed results. Carb cleaners as well, some make it sticky- some remove it completely. Wax and Grease remover seems to work well if you screw up a part- but I found that both items need to be at a certain temperature for it to "activate". If you attempt to do it while it's extremely cold, it doesn't work well. Almost as if the Wax & Grease Remover is "dormant" and the Sharkhide is too "tough" at lower temps for them to work (or fight) with each other.

It has Toulene and Xylene in it, which I gather is what keeps it liquid while uncured. But the interesting thing is that sometimes it can be shined up without wiping it off or removing any of it... simply by smearing a light oil over it. I tried with ACF50 and it seemed like all it did was enhance it's shine. I removed all the ACF50 from it, and it just looked as it did when I applied it. I tried this over a spot that had a Sharkhide drip/run so I could see how much of the coating it would remove, and it didn't do much.

My current findings:

Aromatic solvents seem to be the type of distillates that will completely remove Sharkhide.

Naphthenic solvents don't seem to do much unless it's a high concentration- though I need to test more with that.

Paraffin solvents like hand lotion and moisturizers can literally be used to shine the Sharkhide.

[grannyknot]

Wow, you went a lot farther in your research then I did. 

Although the sharkhide can handle fairly high temps, ultimately it may not be the best coating for engine parts due to its dislike of gas and oil. But the rest of the engine bay will probably be fine, as the weather gets warmer I'm going to start testing it on hard rubber and plastics.

The glisten is a 2 part mixing process so I can't imagine that trying to repair gouges and scratches would be anymore successful then repairing chips in exterior paint. Being clear it may not be as noticeable but probably wouldn't be as smooth.                      

Glisten does cure to a hard surface though so may take well to sanding, that would be an experiment worth trying.

Chris