Moving along with the Z and currently putting the hvac plate on. I read somewhere the plate should be already attached to the cables and then the cables to the heater box? If that's the case my cables are all already connected. Is there another way to install the plate. Any photos would be great!

 

Thanks!!

 

mo 

Photos of what you have and where you plan to attach it would be helpful.  There are a couple threads active in the last couple weeks about rigging aftermarket AC controls to existing vent controls.  See if either of these help.

 

http://tinyurl.com/nsvc2kl

 

http://tinyurl.com/o4z9uc8

 

Dennis

Edited October 1, 20159 yr by psdenno

Moving along with the Z and currently putting the hvac plate on. I read somewhere the plate should be already attached to the cables and then the cables to the heater box? If that's the case my cables are all already connected. Is there another way to install the plate. Any photos would be great!

Not really clear what "hvac plate" means.  Or "heater box".  I've detached and attached cables from both ends.  Sometimes it takes some contorting and a little extra maneuvering, and don't lose the little clip, but I think that the cables could be installed last if you wanted to do it that way.  

 

Edit - the ends of the cables go to the water rooster on the firewall, and the foot vent doors.  That's why heater box is odd.  I haven't worked with the vents so maybe that's the heater box.

Edited October 2, 20159 yr by Zed Head

Photos of what you have and where you plan to attach it would be helpful.  There are a couple threads active in the last couple weeks about rigging aftermarket AC controls to existing vent controls.  See if either of these help.

 

http://tinyurl.com/nsvc2kl

 

http://tinyurl.com/o4z9uc8

 

Dennis

 

I'll try to take pics this weekend

Not really clear what "hvac plate" means.  Or "heater box".  I've detached and attached cables from both ends.  Sometimes it takes some contorting and a little extra maneuvering, and don't lose the little clip, but I think that the cables could be installed last if you wanted to do it that way.  

 

Edit - the ends of the cables go to the water rooster on the firewall, and the foot vent doors.  That's why heater box is odd.  I haven't worked with the vents so maybe that's the heater box.

 

 

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic01b/40-3401A  That is the plate I am trying to screw on to the vent door sliding mechanism. The sliding mechanism along with the cables are all attached to the heater box, unfortunately I cannot get the leverage behind the dash to screw in the mechanism to the plate.

 

Also does the rear of the sliding mechanism sit or hook on to something or it simply screws on to the panel and the panel screws on to the dash?

 

This would be so much easier with pics, and i'll get them this weekend.

The four cables all have to be attached to the front control level panel before putting that panel into/onto the dash. The cables are routed into place as you put the panel in, then later, attached to the four points (hot water valve, vent flap and two on the right side) under the dash.

Each connection point requires a slightly different acrobat stance to get its retention clip in place, but perservere, you can do it.

I cannot imagine trying to do it the other way.

Edited October 2, 20159 yr by zKars

The four cables all have to be attached to the front control level panel before putting that panel into/onto the dash. The cables are routed into place as you put the panel in, then later, attached to the four points (hot water valve, vent flap and two on the right side) under the dash.

Each connection point requires a slightly different acrobat stance to get its retention clip in place, but perservere, you can do it.

I cannot imagine trying to do it the other way.

 

Thank you! I did the opposite, I installed the cables and mechanism first.

The disassembly is described in the 1976 AC chapter.  AC-31.  And, of course, assembly is in reverse.  They say have the cables on the control assembly (plate) first.  So zKars's method is best.

 

It is possible to remove at least some of the cable ends, maybe all, from the assembly though, with it installed.  But you do need some slack in the cable so that you can maneuver it without bending it.  If yours is already done backward you'll know pretty soon whether you need to take it apart again.

Thanks guys, i'll take a look at it this weekend.

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