I took it out with the insulator and crossmember on the trans, then took them off once outside the car. I did it that way too when I did the trans swap last year. I guess you can do it either way. Doing it the way you suggest probably would make it easier to mount the insulator on the trans and also get the engine/trans in/out of the car. 

My first transmission R&R, I couldn't get the car high enough to pull the trans and bellhousing from under the car in one piece. Ended up separating the trans and housing under the car and, of course, reassembling the two under the car. Kind of a PITA but doable.

  On 12/14/2015 at 6:06 PM, blodi said:

I took it out with the insulator and crossmember on the trans, then took them off once outside the car. I did it that way too when I did the trans swap last year. I guess you can do it either way. Doing it the way you suggest probably would make it easier to mount the insulator on the trans and also get the engine/trans in/out of the car.

I had thought about trying that, crossmember and insulator already on the tranny, but I decided it would be something extra in the way. Maybe I'll try it though? Worked for you!

If it were me, I would have the crankcase breather working. Not sure if the valve cover will release enough pressure to keep your oil seals in place.

Crankcase should have some kind of ported vacuum to properly vent.

blodi

Car looks great and a quadcopter and an rc plane in the background even better...

 

  On 12/15/2015 at 12:42 AM, Patcon said:

blodi

Car looks great and a quadcopter and an rc plane in the background even better... 

Thanks:) I guess i've never grown up with all my toys out in my "man cave".

 

  On 12/14/2015 at 11:23 PM, madkaw said:

If it were me, I would have the crankcase breather working. Not sure if the valve cover will release enough pressure to keep your oil seals in place.
Crankcase should have some kind of ported vacuum to properly vent.

I honestly am not buying or selling either way. I have read both sides of the topic. This thread is what convinced me to keeping it blocked was ok: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/75143-crank-case-ventilation/

 

The argument that boosted L28ET's are only breathing though the valve cover once boost comes on seems valid. 

My 600+hp turbo NSX only vents through the valve covers to a catch can that has a breather filter of the same size. (maybe apples/oranges but fwiw).  

 

But, in all honesty, if I could easily get the old breather tube off of the L24 and get that plug out of the L28, I'd do it. I'm just don't want to screw something up. 

 

Another question regarding this is do I remove the vac line that used to go to the crank breather and cap it off?

There's a good diagram of air/vapor flow in the Emissions chapter of the FSM's.  Might give some ideas.  Without the lower passageway you basically just end up a with a stagnant zone in the crankcase so the blowby byproducts will condense out into the oil.

 

But the large diameter crankcase tube connects to a fairly small PCV valve so you're not losing as much flow volume as you might think.

Here's what they show in the 72 FSM.  They only describe the reverse flow in words here.  In later FSM's I think that they added another picture with arrows showing reverse flow.

 

 

Seems like the small hose connects to that block under the coil? Or is connected to the air filter? Too lazy to walk downstairs right now, I'll know tomorrow.

Yup. It goes to that block under the coil. Just cap it off there?

  On 12/15/2015 at 11:22 PM, blodi said:

Yup. It goes to that block under the coil. Just cap it off there?

I would think so, that's all new to me though, I've always had the PCV working.  

I respect Braap's knowledge, but in my research the delete of the pcv might have negative effects on engine operation while leaving it in has no effect on power . It's an effective emission device that could possibly prevent crankcase pressures from causing problems.