20 minutes ago, blodi said:

The pertronix doesn't use any different cap...same ol cap. I did replace the cap/rotor last summer just to have a fresh set on there...they must have gotten me an odd ball one..and I know I tossed the old one...wish I hadn't now. I ordered up a new 240 and 280 cap...even though I probably just need the 240...but just want to make sure. Hopefully it will be here in a couple days. I'm dying to hear this thing run too!

So with Petronix you just change out the guts and use the same distributor. Learned something new today!

I put a '79 ZX remanufactured distributor in my #918 240. The #110 still has points. Maybe one day I'll change it over too. I'm thinking I may sale it though, I went nuts and have more Zs than garage doors.

Another thought I just had.... I am using the 240 distributor....but now I'm running the F54 block...would I need a ZX distributor to get correct timing? 

Edited February 22, 20169 yr by blodi

Any should work if the parts are oriented right.  You moved the mount with the distributor so it should be fine.  Once you get things oriented correctly.  You have spark, just maybe at the wrong time.

 

Ok, good to know. 

I'm going to play with it a bit more tonight and also loosen the underneath bolt for the timing adjustment so maybe I can get a bit more advance. It certainly wanted to start more with the distributor fully advanced. 

 You might want to recheck the oil pump-distributor shaft for proper orientation w- the No. 1 cyl. on TDC compression stroke. If you can't advance the dist. enough, the shaft may be off one tooth.

3 hours ago, blodi said:

Another thought I just had.... I am using the 240 distributor....but now I'm running the F54 block...would I need a ZX distributor to get correct timing? 

This is my 240 distributor in my 280Z block. Works well.

I have to see if I have a photo with the cap on as it ran excellent in the position I have it set up.

15 minutes ago, Mark Maras said:

 You might want to recheck the oil pump-distributor shaft for proper orientation w- the No. 1 cyl. on TDC compression stroke. If you can't advance the dist. enough, the shaft may be off one tooth.

Exactly. That is the first thing to check before you do anything. If that is off you will be chasing your tail.

Was it an empty hole you put the 240 dizzy in on the front cover? I'm asking because the f54 aka zx has a different oriented mounting ear for the zx dizzy. I'm using my phone so I can't show you a picture but you could google images of the difference.

Yes! The smaller side should be in front, I think, and it would look like 11:25 if it's right. At tdc on the compression stroke, the first two cam lobes should look similar to a rabbit's ears or actually mickey mouse's ears.

Edited February 22, 20169 yr by siteunseen

2 hours ago, siteunseen said:

Yes! The smaller side should be in front, I think, and it would look like 11:25 if it's right. At tdc on the compression stroke, the first two cam lobes should look similar to a rabbit's ears or actually mickey mouse's ears.

Yup that's exactly how mine looked.  Here is my rotor at TDC with a fair amount of advance....

 

i checked the timing with the distributor at full advance wit my timing light and manually turning the engine over.  It hit at 20 degrees btdc. So I guess my timing setup is fine and I have more than enough advance. 

I pulled the fuel line off the rear carb and checked to make sure the pump was flowing and it was working really well. I pulled the fuel lines off the jets and both bowls had plenty of fuel in them. 

In picked up some starter fluid on the way home. Each time I sprayed it in the carbs it fired up right away for a few seconds. So I think I'm having a fuel issue. Maybe even bad gas? Fuel is 3+ months old and I didn't put stabilizer in it as I thought I'd maybe be draining it to install the fuel pump. 

Seems like it wouldn't go bad that fast. It's not gelled up or anything. But I might try to fill the carbs with fresh fuel tomorrow and see what happens. 

1 hour ago, blodi said:

i checked the timing with the distributor at full advance wit my timing light and manually turning the engine over.  It hit at 20 degrees btdc. So I guess my timing setup is fine and I have more than enough advance. 

I pulled the fuel line off the rear carb and checked to make sure the pump was flowing and it was working really well. I pulled the fuel lines off the jets and both bowls had plenty of fuel in them. 

In picked up some starter fluid on the way home. Each time I sprayed it in the carbs it fired up right away for a few seconds

Seems like it wouldn't go bad that fast. It's not gelled up or anything. But I might try to fill the carbs with fresh fuel tomorrow and see what happens. 

What do you mean by "full advance"? You twisted the distributor as far as it would twist?  After you checked it, where did you set it?

Sounds like you're close.  And it does sound like a fuel supply problem, since starting fluid works.  I would set the timing to 10 degrees and focus on the carbs.  I'm not an SU guy for sure, and barely a typical USA style carb guy.  But I think that if the pistons in the SU's get stuck, you get no fuel.  Since you rebuilt them yourself, might be there's a error.  Site has posted some tricks for unjamming a piston, I believe, and I'm sure there are some other good tricks out there.

easy to check if the pistons are stuck - lift up w/your finger and let it fall down, it should lift up smoothly with just the tension of the spring, then go "thunk" when you let it fall.

if they are binding, loosen the 3 (or 4) screws holding on the domes and then see if the pistons move smoothly - you may need to twist them back/forth a little to find just the right spot. when done, both pistons should be matched so if you push them both up using both hands and let them drop at the same time they should "thunk" exactly together.

check your float level - the most important adjustment to get right first, everything else is based on this.