floor frame rail question.

[Mark Maras]

 74 260. Sept. 73 build date. History, Two P.O.s attempted to get it back on the road. Neither had any success. Engine didn't run. It does now.

 Outside shell was sound. Painted flat black.  Seemed reasonably complete judging by the boxes full of removed parts. Spare engine(actually the original). 5 speed, 92,000 on the odometer. $1350.00  

 I tried to tell myself no, wait for a better one, spend a little more money, you know, logical things. But it appeared that if I didn't try, the car was headed for the great PiknPul in the sky. What was I to do. Certainly not the logical thing.

 Rusted out areas; battery tray, fender well below it, 6" strip of the firewall too, rear cover under the hatch, spare tire well, floor boards & rear support rails. So far.

 I'm about to install new ZF floors & rear rails. Charlies rails are about 6" longer than the originals. Great quality too. I was going to bend the front up & section it into the sloping rail. Instead is there any reason why the rail can't be slid back & used full length? The rear of the rail would be between the rear seat mounts instead of 2 1/2" behind the front seat mount. The front section that slopes up appears to be sound.  

[grannyknot]

No reason that I can see, in fact I'm pretty sure I did just that then welded Baddog rails over top of the stock and then added BD's extensions so those rails tie into the rear subframe, STIFF.

first pic is Charlie's stock pans and rails, second pic is BD's over top.

[Mark Maras]

Thanks for the pics. I like the looks of those BD rails as a cap.

 I'm going to extend the rail back. I may add a brace between the rear seats mounts and anchor the end of the rail there.

The sloped front section is in good shape but I'm going to reinforce it anyway. "WHILE I'M IN THERE"