Engine only runs with starter fluid

[Zed Head]

Looks to me like your float hanging brackets are bent.  Like somebody twisted the float.  Pretty sure that they should be straight.

As I understand dial-back timing lights, they always flash just like a regular light.  The dial is turned until the flashes happen at the zero mark on your crank pulley.  The number you read on the dial is the timing advance.  But they always flash.  Or you can set the dial to desired advance and move the distributor until the flash happens at zero.  You can also set the dial to zero and just use the marks on the pulley if you want to.  So it's not really clear what you're measuring.  Could be a technique error.

[hatepotholez]

17 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

Looks to me like your float hanging brackets are bent.  Like somebody twisted the float.  Pretty sure that they should be straight.

As I understand dial-back timing lights, they always flash just like a regular light.  The dial is turned until the flashes happen at the zero mark on your crank pulley.  The number you read on the dial is the timing advance.  But they always flash.  Or you can set the dial to desired advance and move the distributor until the flash happens at zero.  You can also set the dial to zero and just use the marks on the pulley if you want to.  So it's not really clear what you're measuring.  Could be a technique error.

Your right it's bent and I'm guessing the ears are missing. I might order another float and see if I can locate another lid. 

So your right on the error, I have no idea how to use it. I have to read the instructions. Basically the light flashes intensely when I turn the dial to 0 and then flashes above 17 degrees. I set the dial to 10 degrees, then I turn the distributor until it flashes but no success. Only flashes below 5 degrees and above 10 degrees. The vacuum tube is off this whole time. 

Any idea  what z this distributor is off of?

Edited January 1, 2017 by hatepotholez

[Zed Head]

This picture is from the 1973 FSM.  Yours is close.

Here's a good old thread with more numbers.  But yours isn't there.

Mike, Walter's thread would be a good one for the knowledge Base. @Mike

[hatepotholez]

I'm thinking it's a euro dist.

Edited January 1, 2017 by hatepotholez

[Zed Head]

Do you have a plain old timing light?  Just to get your initial timing right.  You're spending a lot of time on a simple thing.  Or just set it to zero, where it flashes intensely, and use the third mark on the pulley.

[hatepotholez]

42 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

Do you have a plain old timing light?  Just to get your initial timing right.  You're spending a lot of time on a simple thing.  Or just set it to zero, where it flashes intensely, and use the third mark on the pulley.

Unfortunately no, but I will set it to 0 like you stated hopefully that'll work. I did find a reference from @Stanley where the emissions section of the fsm has the d612-53 model number. 

 

 

[sweatybetty]

4 hours ago, Zed Head said:

 just set it to zero, where it flashes intensely, and use the third mark on the pulley.

+1

[siteunseen]

Having been fooling with mine these past few days, your float tangs are bent way too high.  Just like mine were and there was very little gas in the float chambers.  I bet you set yours the way I did, upside down resting on the pin.  They were a pain getting them bent back to a normal "ramp" like they should be.  I thought about buying new ones too but didn't, maybe you should?  I don't have a lot to do in this life so spending hours to save a few dollars is no big deal. 

If you get them close to this picture they'll just be a millimeter or two off.

After bending them like new ones look, here's where I was.  Hard to see but it's about 2mm high in this picture.

Edited January 2, 2017 by siteunseen

[hatepotholez]

so i set the light at 0 and rotated to the third mark. The car wont even stay on, it dies and then wont restart. I did notice my new plugs are now black and the car is shooting black exhaust. the car is running ridiculously rich, cant even go near the car because my eyes gets so watery. The float issue is partially fixed, I  need a new gasket and that issue will be solved.

Can the car run so rich that it wont run at the correct timing?

[Zed Head]

Set the mark at 10 degrees and remove the distributor cap.  Make sure that the #1 cylinder is the one that's getting the spark at that time.  Where the rotor is pointing, and the points will have just started to open.  With all of the things that you have going on you probably need to start from scratch.  It's actually very easy to do, just get the various parts aligned.

[Zed Head]

I just saw your pictures on the other forum.  You really should take some time to think about the combustion cycle and the various things that need to happen in sequence.  You're way back at 101 level, no offense.  

Get the damper mark, and the cam marks (notch and groove with the chain tight), and the points about to open (the bump on the distributor shaft), and the rotor pointing at the correct plug wire (#1).  All together, at the same time.  Just start by turning the engine in the proper direction until the damper mark is at zero, then look at all of the areas I listed, and make sure things are correct.  The notch and groove are shown in the Engine Mechanical chapter.

[siteunseen]

While you have the floats detached from the lids put a small amount of black RTV or whatever fuel resistant adhesive around the bottom of the lids and glue the cork gaskets to the lids. The thin layer dries fast so do one at a time. Without the floats you can get the lids on quicker. Put the screws in and slightly tighten them down leaving the lid on overnight. You won't have to worry with those gaskets for a long time.

How many turns out are the nozzles? If you have the floats close  then 2.5 counter clockwise should be good while you figure out the timing. If your float tangs were that high I'd bet you had to run the nozzles way down, like 4 or 5 turns? That would blacken those plugs now that the float level is close. Hit them with a wire brush or wheel and see if they're still good. good luck