Engine only runs with starter fluid

[hatepotholez]

1 minute ago, Zed Head said:

I seem to recall that some aftermarket timing chain sprockets don't have notches.  It's the sprocket that has the notch.  

I'd focus on that damper first.  It's a very important part even though it doesn't seem to do much but spin.

I agree, I have no information on the engine rebuild. I will set the carbs, get a damper,  get the car road worthy and then later on go back and redo the whole timing chain/gears. 

[hatepotholez]

21 minutes ago, siteunseen said:

thanks for the photos btw, so helpful!

[hatepotholez]

On 1/2/2017 at 8:21 PM, Zed Head said:

Here's a picture from the FSM showing the notch and groove inspection.  The groove is on the plate behind the sprccket and the notch is in the edge of the sprocket, next to the plate.

 

On 1/2/2017 at 10:20 PM, Zed Head said:

That's a great reference from atlanticz.ca.  The drawings in the FSM don't give a good idea of what they actually look like.  I cut out the part that shows the notch and groove, although the yellow arrow is off a bit..

 

Thanks for these also!

[hatepotholez]

Ok on to the carbs,

 

I purchased this kit when I rebuilt my carbs:

https://zcardepot.com/fuel/carburetor/carburetor-rebuild-kit-round-top-su-240z-1970-73.html

The needles are M43 and M39. Would the longer needle be less rich? I should have checked the needles that originally came with the car.

Also I ordered a colortune, I find this device amazing. Once I get everything synced, I will use the colortune to finish the job. 

On to the floats, I received an email from Bruce stating: 

"hold the lid like it is on the carb with the float under the lid. Blow into the fuel inlet tube while moving the float up toward the lid. You’ll feel when the needles closes. At that point you measure the distance from the bottom of the lid to the top of the float lever. .55"

I will try this.

Edited January 9, 2017 by hatepotholez

[siteunseen]

I couldn't ever get that to work by myself, didn't try too long after I realized I needed another pair of hands.  With someone checking the .55" measure for you it will be easier.  I was trying to do everything looking at the mirror's reversed image. 

1/8th clear hose will work on the very bottom nipple of the float chamber.  Hardware or aquarium supply store should have this.  2 feet is enough for both carbs.  Good luck.

[siteunseen]

Ooops!  It's 1/4", sorry.

[hatepotholez]

2 minutes ago, siteunseen said:

Ooops!  It's 1/4", sorry.

Thanks!!

 

I ordered the float-sync off eBay. I believe it's a hybridZ forum member who is making it.

[beermanpete]

On 1/8/2017 at 10:57 AM, siteunseen said:

The whole reason I'm saying this is because it may be as easy as moving the cam sprocket to the next hole.  They have #1, #2 and #3 for adjusting out the chain stretch.
 

What does the cam sprocket positon have to do with the timing marks on the damper? The timing marks on the damper indicate cranckshaft positon with with respect to the #1 piston.

[siteunseen]

I was thinking if he had the cam sprocket groove and the line on the cam lock down plate lined up, the damper might line up with the 0 mark.  It's not very far judging by his pictures.  

[Zed Head]

The cam sprocket's postilion, relative to the crankshaft, is determined by the chain.  You can check the damper with the camshaft completely removed.

I like the idea of removing the crankshaft damper bolt and washer and checking the woodruff keyway position.  It should be visible and oriented to the top of the cylinder bores.  I'd say "straight up" but the engine is tilted.  Once hate starts removing belts though, he'll probably find that it's wiggly and obviously bad.  If the bolt was easier to get to and remove this would probably be the first thing we recommend.  But it's a pain, so it's not.

[beermanpete]

15 hours ago, siteunseen said:

I was thinking if he had the cam sprocket groove and the line on the cam lock down plate lined up, the damper might line up with the 0 mark.  It's not very far judging by his pictures.  

Perhaps they would but that won't tell us anything about the position of the piston nor will it help set the ignition timing which is the purpose for the marks on the damper.

[hatepotholez]

On 1/8/2017 at 1:57 PM, siteunseen said:

That's the same as my early '72, pointer and pulley.  I think it would be worth the time figuring out if your timing chain sprocket lines up with the TDC markings.  I've got that stuff outside in a storage building and if I took each piece and took a picture of them separate then you would be able to figure it out.  I'll try and get that together for you asap but it's COLD!!! down here. 

A quick way to look and see if it's close is look at the front of the pulley at TDC.  The notch on the crank's nose where the "key lock"? slides in should be pointed straight up.  

I found a thrust plate in my guest/junk room.  If you'll look through the hole on the cam sprocket, to the left you'll see a notch on the backside of the sprocket and in that notch you should see a small line to the left of the bolt on the thrust plate.

The whole reason I'm saying this is because it may be as easy as moving the cam sprocket to the next hole.  They have #1, #2 and #3 for adjusting out the chain stretch.

I forgot to ask, which cam gear is that? Doesn't look OE per the service manual.