Engine only runs with starter fluid

[siteunseen]

I can't remember right off, I'll look in my file and see if I can find the receipt.  It's for a ZX, I know that.  Seems like I had a hard time finding a timing kit for a 2.4 then someone said the racers use ZX kits so that's what I bought.  Power Line I think.

After fiddling with carbs floats for a couple of weeks I finally got them at 23mm.  Tuned the nozzles and ended up at 3 1/2 turns down.  My car finally runs like the other 240 I had, it pulls hard until the redline then I shift up.  So damn happy!  

Edited January 12, 2017 by siteunseen

[siteunseen]

Loading my clothes and looked up to see this. 

[hatepotholez]

21 hours ago, siteunseen said:

I can't remember right off, I'll look in my file and see if I can find the receipt.  It's for a ZX, I know that.  Seems like I had a hard time finding a timing kit for a 2.4 then someone said the racers use ZX kits so that's what I bought.  Power Line I think.

After fiddling with carbs floats for a couple of weeks I finally got them at 23mm.  Tuned the nozzles and ended up at 3 1/2 turns down.  My car finally runs like the other 240 I had, it pulls hard until the redline then I shift up.  So damn happy!  

thats fantastic!!

I just received my float-sync tool going to try it this weekend and see how it goes. I'm also going to remove my choke cables when I do the carb adjustments, I want to make sure the chokes don't interfere with the balancing. 

 

 

20 hours ago, siteunseen said:

Loading my clothes and looked up to see this. 

Thanks!

[hatepotholez]

Front and rear float levels, almost 23mm. Also a video of it idling, pretty smooth. Unsure if it's charging so I had the battery maintainer on it. That's another issue to check. 

IMG_4515.MOV

[hatepotholez]

I apologize for not updating sooner, but I really don't have the time to work on the car only between semesters. 

So now that the timing issue is sort of fixed I moved on to the carbs. I bought a Gunson colortune, very simple in it's operation. I'm not sure if anyone here has used it but you adjust the carbs until the flame in at the color tune is blue. I was able to adjust the rear carb to get a blue flame but the front is rich. The car is so rich that it wouldn't start back up at the gas station. I can't seem to figure this out. I am going to check the aftermarket mechanical fuel pump pressure to see if it is less than 3.5psi. I don't know what else to do at this point. My floats are good, I adjusted the a/f adjustment by 1 turn roughly, all my emission equipment is disconnected and capped. 

 

 

 

[Mark Maras]

 Are the fuel nozzles both in the up (un-choked) position? Occasionally, that metal linkage bit from the cable to the nozzle can get a bit of a twist in it and prevent the nozzle from sliding up when the choke is off.

[siteunseen]

That happened to one of mine before.  The nozzle was stuck.  I had unhook everything and drop the nozzle then sand the brass down smooth.  It was coated with a varnishy coating from sitting too long.

Good eye Mark, hopefully.

[Mark Maras]

 When I had one stick, the cure was twisting that little flat bar linkage bit to align it better to the nozzle, The surface that the screw passes thru wasn't parallel with the mounting surface on the nozzle causing it to bind. 

[hatepotholez]

Should I disconnect the choke cable completely?


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[siteunseen]

Unhook the cable and see if you can move it up and down.  I'd think if it movs any it's in that flat metal bar Mark's talking about.  It should move up and down about an inch with the choke cable undone, freely by hand.

[siteunseen]

Oh and mark the cable location on it's hold down clamp with a Sharpie or something so you'll be sure and get it back right.

[hatepotholez]

I always manually put both chokes on at the carbs when I start the car and then pull the cable inside the car to keep the chokes on.


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