Before I hooked up the fuel lines we had a remote bottle of fuel straight to the pump and it worked. I then connected the fuel filter to the the mechanical pump and lines and it ran on thrtottle but no idle this happened 2-3 weeks ago.

After tearinfg apart the fuel pump and not getting fuel I disconnected fhe fuel filter on the output side and it was dry. The tank was emptied and cleaned before I installed it. How long does it usually take the system to prime on a bone dry system?

Edited October 23, 20159 yr by hatepotholez

Here is the "tab" that is on the damper body. This tab makes it difficult to remove the float. I had to turn the float plate almost 360 degrees to leverage it out.

You can do without those rubber tabs. I cut mine off, they're for alignment and if you get the screws in barely tighten them and raise the piston in the carb body. If it falls at a smooth rate tighten the screws.

I'd pull the valve cover off and work that arm that rides against the cam nose by hand until you get fuel to the float chambers.  You can check for fuel in the chambers by sticking a red WD-40 straw down the overflow bung then pull it out to see if it's wet. 

I misunderstood your tab reference, sorry.  I thought you were talking about the rubber stopper under the dome.  Now I know.  

 

Take the 4 screws out.  Turn the float chamber lid 90 degrees counter clockwise.  there's 2 indentations on the sides of the lid.  You'll have to gently wiggle it around the tab, keeping it flat against the bowl, working the indentations under the tab.  It'll pull up and out.

 

I misunderstood your tab reference, sorry.  I thought you were talking about the rubber stopper under the dome.  Now I know.  

 

Take the 4 screws out.  Turn the float chamber lid 90 degrees counter clockwise.  there's 2 indentations on the sides of the lid.  You'll have to gently wiggle it around the tab, keeping it flat against the bowl, working the indentations under the tab.  It'll pull up and out.

 

DSC01242.JPG

DSC01243.JPG

DSC01244.JPG

DSC01245.JPG

DSC01246.JPG

DSC01247.JPG

 

 

No worries, thank you for this! very useful. Now if I can only get pressure in the system 

Update time, Mech. pump was not pulling after multiple cranks. So I took a syringe and put gasoline into each float bowl. I squirt in some starter fluid and the car turns over and stays on but I am modulating the syringe on the vent on the rear carb and this keeps the engine running but eventually dies for no gas. I then install a low pressure fuel pump that supposedly outputs 2-3.5 psi, when this pump is on for too long, gas overflows on the front carb from the vent and nozzle. I did not install a regulator yet. The rear does not overflow so I assume the needle and seat is clogged. I slightly hit the side of the rear float bowl and now gas is coming out from the vent and the nozzle as the front was. I then check the float, looks ok but did not take the needle and seat apart.  

 

Tomorrow I will install the pressure regulator and see if it will run continuously. Even though the fuel is flowing out of the float bowls the car still only runs on starter fluid and no fluid is coming out of the nozzle(unless I am not supposed to see it when cranking). Forgot to mention on the old plugs the first 3 were dry, the rear 3 were wet. I then installed new plugs. 

3 psi shouldn't overwhelm the float valves. Makes sure the floats are set properly and seal when shut. 1st things 1st...

Thanks, I might just rebuild them as I don't know the history of them.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

IMO No need to remove the carbs. The problem is in the floats & valves as Patcon said. Properly operating f. valves should be able to handle 4 psi.

 Remove the float covers & dash pot domes.  Don't bend the needles. Clean everything up, fix the float & valve problem, check mixture needle height, operate the choke & ensure the nozzles are moving down & up, set the mixture screws (nozzle height) 2 1/2 turns down & do a drop test on the pistons (dash pots). It should run at this point in time.

My floats before adjustment, overflowed.  Set the top of the float .550" from the underside of the lids.  And the front carb has the taller float valve, if they're the same, add washers. 

 

 

Thanks for the reply guys.

 

The pots drop down evenly and make a clunk. I'm sorry but how do I check the mixture needle height?

 

Another update, took apart the rear float, everything looked ok but the float needed a slight adjustment, I believe it was sitting at 10mm high. I cleaned the needle, seat and adjusted the float(15mm). Vehicle still needed a quick squirt of starter fluid and then the car remained on her own but needed constant depression of the gas pedal to stay on(choke was fully on). A little after the car was able to stay on without pressing the gas pedal. I checked timing and it was ridiculously off but that's another topic . I ordered the carb rebuild kit and will tackle it next weekend. At this point the nozzle looks to be ok, might have to correctly adjust the carb cables also.

I can't remember how to set the needle right off my head this morning, it's a little fuzzy. 

 

I'll scan through the DVD today and see how, it's something simple.  Maybe someone else will remember for me.  That DVD is a treasure at the bottom of the sea, but watching it is like the boat ride to the treasure.  It's a little rough and makes me motion sick.