Engine only runs with starter fluid

[hatepotholez]

I have a 3 pot, i'll go back to the Ztherapy DVD. Apparently I skipped through this part.

Mark, I have not and I might not since the rear carb is working beatifully lol.   

I'm trying to source parts as we speak.

 

 

[siteunseen]

Chuck the needle in a drill and slowly work it with emory cloth.

[Mark Maras]

 

10 hours ago, siteunseen said:

Chuck the needle in a drill and slowly work it with emory cloth.

 Cliff,  I think a drill motor would be an excellent method to determine straightness of the needle but when finished with this sanding procedure aren't you left with one carb running richer than the other or are you compensating with the nozzle adjustment? It seems to me that new needles would be the better answer. 

[beermanpete]

Be careful using abrasives to clean the needles. If any of the original material is removed it will affect the fuel/air mixture. If the needle is bent replace it. They are not hard to get.

The symptoms reported indicate a problem with the damper (pot) at the top of the carb, not the needle. Focus on one issue at a time and do what you can to isolate the various components in the system to determine which part is at fault. For example, remove the pots and see how the vacuum piston moves. If it move freely then the needle and nozzle are ok. Next, add the pot if the vacuum piston now sticks the problem is with the pot or the bore it rides in (in the vacuum piston). If there is still doubt about the culprit, remove the nozzle and/or the needle and check the piston operation again with only the pot. Divide and conquer.

[hatepotholez]

31 minutes ago, beermanpete said:

Be careful using abrasives to clean the needles. If any of the original material is removed it will affect the fuel/air mixture. If the needle is bent replace it. They are not hard to get.

The symptoms reported indicate a problem with the damper (pot) at the top of the carb, not the needle. Focus on one issue at a time and do what you can to isolate the various components in the system to determine which part is at fault. For example, remove the pots and see how the vacuum piston moves. If it move freely then the needle and nozzle are ok. Next, add the pot if the vacuum piston now sticks the problem is with the pot or the bore it rides in (in the vacuum piston). If there is still doubt about the culprit, remove the nozzle and/or the needle and check the piston operation again with only the pot. Divide and conquer.

I did exactly what you are describing. Everything is fine once the pot is screwed down then it starts sticking. I can't remember if I always had this problem with the front carb. 

[hatepotholez]

Here is pics of the rear float and new needle and seat. 

[siteunseen]

What about the hole in the top of the nozzle? It seems like Steve from the dvd mentions someway to compensate if that hole is off centered. Maybe the drill thing I was thinking of had something to do with that? I'm not sure though, it's been awhile since I've watched it. I think that maybe my mistake Mark, I was thinking there was a way to keep them from binding in the nozzle.

Sorry for any bad advice.

 

[beermanpete]

3 hours ago, hatepotholez said:

I did exactly what you are describing. Everything is fine once the pot is screwed down then it starts sticking. I can't remember if I always had this problem with the front carb. 

Good. The needles are fine. The next step is to swap the pots to the alternate carbs and see if the problem moves to the rear carb or stays in the front carb.

[Captain Obvious]

Despite the simplicity of the carbs design, they are actually precision instruments with some very precise dimensions in a couple spots. I'm not completely sure what part you dropped, but if you dropped the dome or the piston on the floor and bent either piece, then I think you're in the market for replacement parts. The clearance fit between those two parts is crucial and if it's not right, it will affect mixture ratio.

If you're sanding parts to get the piston to rise and fall smoothly after dropping something, then the whole "constant velocity" part of your CV carb could be thrown off.

[hatepotholez]

So, I ran the car with no screws attaching the pots. 

Car runs beautifully. I have a pot and piston on order. This should solve the trick. fingers crossed. 

[Patcon]

That was a good idea. I had never thought of running them with out the screws

[Captain Obvious]

Earlier you said that you have a 3 pot. (I'm assuming that means you have three screws holding the suction chamber to the carb body?)

I've not messed with those personally and am wondering...  Does that version have the little epoxy alignment nubbies sticking up into suction chamber to align the chamber to the body? If that's the case, then there's no guarantee that a replacement suction chamber will align correctly onto your existing body. It's a surmountable issue, but something to watch out for.