Engine only runs with starter fluid

[hatepotholez]

Ok, i'll try it. They are brand new but i'll try it anyway. 

[Mark Maras]

IMO, Don't remove the float bowl from the carb. body unless it's leaking at that connection. I've never seen one leak there.

 Whether your needle and seat is new or not, it's not closing all the way. I had a new one do the same thing once. I took it apart, couldn't see anything wrong, cleaned it, reassembled it and it worked fine. Never did discover the source of the problem.

To prevent the bowl gasket from "Pringling", sandwich it between sheets of wax paper and put it between two flat surfaces. I use two books.

[hatepotholez]

Just now, Mark Maras said:

IMO, Don't remove the float bowl from the carb. body unless it's leaking at that connection. I've never seen one leak there.

 Whether your needle and seat is new or not, it's not closing all the way. I had a new one do the same thing once. I took it apart, couldn't see anything wrong, cleaned it, reassembled it and it worked fine. Never did discover the source of the problem.

To prevent the bowl gasket from "Pringling", sandwich it between sheets of wax paper and put it between two flat surfaces. I use two books.

That's a good idea, I was having an issue with that gasket. It got soaked with fuel and very difficult to line up. 

Thanks!

[siteunseen]

You can remove the valve and push the pin down and shouldn't be able to blow through it. Does that make  sense? Pin up you can blow through. Pin down no blow.

[hatepotholez]

28 minutes ago, siteunseen said:

You can remove the valve and push the pin down and shouldn't be able to blow through it. Does that make  sense? Pin up you can blow through. Pin down no blow.

Makes sense. I believe the SU DVD used a vacuum tool to check if the needle and seat were good. 

[siteunseen]

I got a bad valve from Ztherapy once, they source them from someone else I'm sure. The pin was too short to bottom out and seal off. Bruce overnighted me another one, no questions asked. They're top shelf folks in my book!

[rossiz]

hard to tell from the pics, but your carb bodies look a little dirty. grit is the enemy - it will make your pistons stick, and the tiniest bit will keep the float valve from seating correctly and because the float valve tip is rubber, a bit of grit (or rust particle) can get stuck in it. clean it and try again.

as for the float bowl gasket - glue it to the lid w/some rtv which will hold it in place for numerous float adjustments. otherwise you'll be miserable with a floppy, twisty thing that won't line up.

[Captain Obvious]

Thanks for the pics showing the alignment pins. They look just like the ones used on the flat top carbs.

Hope you figure out why your float valve isn't sealing...

[hatepotholez]

17 hours ago, siteunseen said:

I got a bad valve from Ztherapy once, they source them from someone else I'm sure. The pin was too short to bottom out and seal off. Bruce overnighted me another one, no questions asked. They're top shelf folks in my book!

I don't doubt that, if it's the needle and seat then i'll call up Bruce. 

11 hours ago, rossiz said:

hard to tell from the pics, but your carb bodies look a little dirty. grit is the enemy - it will make your pistons stick, and the tiniest bit will keep the float valve from seating correctly and because the float valve tip is rubber, a bit of grit (or rust particle) can get stuck in it. clean it and try again.

as for the float bowl gasket - glue it to the lid w/some rtv which will hold it in place for numerous float adjustments. otherwise you'll be miserable with a floppy, twisty thing that won't line up.

Ya, the body is a little dirty. I'll go over it with a tooth brush, carb cleaner and a clean rag. 

When you place the RTV do you place it on the lid or on the bowl? 

 

11 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

Thanks for the pics showing the alignment pins. They look just like the ones used on the flat top carbs.

Hope you figure out why your float valve isn't sealing...

no problem and thanks!

[siteunseen]

2 hours ago, hatepotholez said:

as for the float bowl gasket - glue it to the lid w/some rtv which will hold it in place for numerous float adjustments. otherwise you'll be miserable with a floppy, twisty thing that won't line up.

The lid, from what I read.  I haven't done it myself yet, but the next time I will for sure.  Seems like someone would've made a better gasket by now, these cork ones are pretty much once or twice then replace.  I'll try the RTV like Rossi says. 

 If I remember right Permatex makes one for fuel.

Yes they do;

[hatepotholez]

maybe this:  FEL-PRO/10 X 26 X 1/32 IN. RUBBER AND FIBER GASKET MATERIAL ...

[siteunseen]

I've thought about that stuff but I think it's too thin for the float lids.  The cork is "cushiony".  I think a synthetic material like some oil pan gaskets are made from now, MSA performance gasket, would work.  It's thicker and has a light torque, like the float lids do.  If the http://www.240zrubberparts.com/ guy, Nick I think, could come up with something?  You can still get those gaskets from Nissan, but the kit has all the other stuff with it and it's about $15.  Ztherapy probably sales just the cork and I think RTV sticking them on is a great idea.  I've read about that before in a post that somebody that raced had written, John Coffey maybe?  

If your's aren't torn, put them in a book like Mark said, then RTV to the rescue!  I know I will when I take them off again, which I hope I never have to but we know that ain't happening.