78 280Z 2x2 interior questions-removing for visual inspection

[One Way]

Recently purchased a project car and beginning the dismantling process and have started in the rear hatch, rear seat area. Definitely considerable rust but have some questions on removing the plastic rivets that hold some of the panels in place. Any trick to the plastic rivets? I just did the rear panel covering the tail light section and used a small pair of side cutters to snip off the rivet heads. Any easier process? All the panels are in good shape and do not want to damage them. Also the rear strut covers. How are those removed properly? The strut towers look great from the outside looking past the rear wheels but really want to see what they look like under the upholstery covers. Enjoying the project so far and looks like it will be a very long term project. Thanks for any helpful tips, John-Lugoff, SC

[gwri8]

Assuming that you have the original rivets, use a small punch or something similar to push the center of the rivet all the way through.  Count on recovering less than half of those center pieces. The rear strut covers are held with those same rivets.  Just push the centers out and they should remove easily.  New rivets can be purchased in a couple on online stores.

 

If you are going to remove the side panels, remove the hatch struts first.  You may have to "bend" the panels a little to get them out.

 

Have Fun.

 

Edit:  Oops, just realized you said 2+2.  Rivets should be the same but I don not know about the strut covers, sorry.

Edited October 21, 2015 by gwri8

[One Way]

Thanks for the tips. I may have some time after work to do a little more dismantling and cataloging all the fasteners, parts, etc.

Also making notes on other problem items (besides the rusted condition) such as some frayed wiring at the right rear lights. The rest of the harness looks great in the rear section of this resurrection project. Also did some searching on this very helpful website and found someone who replaced the plastic rivets with some clip nuts and screws with oversized heads. Sounds like a great idea but loads more important things to fix before getting to the reassembly process. And yes I am having fun on the project. John-Lugoff, SC I do not plan on removing the rear hatch just yet so I will keep the struts mounted and leave the interior side panels on for right now.

Edited October 21, 2015 by One Way

[Pop's Z]

I've posted this tip before, but this seems an appropriate place to post it again. To recover the pins you push out of the rivets take your shop vac put a handkerchief over the tip secure with a rubber band. Make sure there is a bit of room IE: a pocket down the hose. Turn on the vac, place hose down the many crevices where the pins hide. Don't shut the vac off until you can grab the pins. Voila, you will pick up 95% of them. The rest are sacrifices to the interior gods. Have fun. It's very satisfying to remove those panels and see what's behind them. Be careful as old plastic can be very brittle.

 

Cheers, Mike

[siteunseen]

I can add my experiences with those and some information on replacements.

 

A #4 penny finish nail with the sharp end cut off works perfect for pushing the pins through.

 

Nissan still sales them for about $1 each, pack of 10 is $10 bucks.  They have the small ones too but those may be just on the rear finisher of the 240s.  Steve J found some on e-bay for the inner fender of a Ford.  I think 50 were only $15?  Anyway here they are, if you can't make out the part numbers let me know.  Oh yeah, they have black and white at Nissan parts department.

 

Oh yeah again!, I thought Pops Z used panty hose (sorry if I'm wrong) so I went to the Dollar Store and bought some cheap "panty hose knee socks" or whatever they're called. 

[gwri8]

A little off topic, but I've gotta ask.  Cliff, are those very comfortable? 

[siteunseen]

I like the white ones best. Like old timer nurses wore. And they really do help my varicose veins. When I don't have the money for a new set, I put the old ones over my head and hold up the ho's store.

[EuroDat]

To get the rivets I made a simple tool by sawing off the end of a broom handle. Drilled into the end of it with a drill bit. The drill bit must be a smaller diameter than the locking pin. Use that to push the pin through. And Pop's advice with the vacuum cleaner works well.

You can find the nissan pin on e-bay of from nissan.

[gwri8]

I like the white ones best. Like old timer nurses wore. And they really do help my varicose veins. When I don't have the money for a new set, I put the old ones over my head and hold up the ho's store.

You know, Joe Namath used to wear them during the winter football games.  Said they kept him warm. He also used to wear fur coats (not in football games).  Pre-Caitlyn Jenner days I guess……..

 

I love how "specialty" tools like Eurodat's invade our tool boxes.  Like they say, "Necessity is the Mother of Invention"

[One Way]

Thanks for all the tips and humor. I used a small allen wrench to pop the pins through. Behind the panels looks very good but the flat sections have severe rust through. The plastic is quite brittle from this car sitting for 19 years. I got the rear side panels out both intact. They did have a few small cracks in them near the edges before I started the removal process, so I am quite happy with the removal so far. Still trying to figure out how to remove the rear strut cover upholstery. They seem to be glued on. Ran out of time last night to go any further on the dismantling. Thanks again, John-Lugoff, SC