All:

 

Thanks for taking the time to read this.  I'm trying to figure out the sequencing for painting and assembling my project.  My plan is to mostly reassemble my shell and check panel alignment, adjust as needed and then disassemble and paint all the edges and hidden areas (doors and window sills).  Then reassemble, wet sand and paint the rest of the car.  My thought process is to minimize the possibility of damage to the finish during reassembly and to make sure the fitment is right while I can still do something about it.  Does this make sense?  It's a lot more work.  What do (did) you guys do with your projects?  

 

I'm a little curious how panel alignment in particular is done because right now my cowl sits about 1/16 to 1/8" lower than the passenger fender and I don't really see any good way to adjust it except either fill it or shim it.  This could be a real problem during final assembly of a finished car.  Thoughts?

The Z that I just finished was a little different. The fenders and one HL bucket were aftermarket and didn't line up well. Also the nose had been smacked at one time. Since the fenders had flares molded into them I was kind of stuck with what I had. Additionally, I was using a pearl metallic paint so all of the panels should be done on the car. I got everything to line up on the car and then took it apart and used epoxy primer and some black paint on the hidden areas. Then I reassembled the panels and painted the body. It came great but it's a lot of work.

 

The edges of the cowl can be flexed up or down an 1/8" if you work carefully at it. I made a hook and pulled up the cowl edge. You can try tapping the fender down too. You also have to get the hood the align with the cowl, inspection lids and fenders. Take your time and keep working at it.

 

Where are you in the Mid-Atlantic?

 

Chuck

The Z that I just finished was a little different. The fenders and one HL bucket were aftermarket and didn't line up well. Also the nose had been smacked at one time. Since the fenders had flares molded into them I was kind of stuck with what I had. Additionally, I was using a pearl metallic paint so all of the panels should be done on the car. I got everything to line up on the car and then took it apart and used epoxy primer and some black paint on the hidden areas. Then I reassembled the panels and painted the body. It came great but it's a lot of work.

 

The edges of the cowl can be flexed up or down an 1/8" if you work carefully at it. I made a hook and pulled up the cowl edge. You can try tapping the fender down too. You also have to get the hood the align with the cowl, inspection lids and fenders. Take your time and keep working at it.

 

Where are you in the Mid-Atlantic?

 

Chuck

Frederick, Maryland

You're not too far from me. My gf lives in Smithsburg so I'm down there often. I'm Chambersburg, PA.

 

Chuck

All:

 

 

 

I'm a little curious how panel alignment in particular is done because right now my cowl sits about 1/16 to 1/8" lower than the passenger fender and I don't really see any good way to adjust it except either fill it or shim it.  This could be a real problem during final assembly of a finished car.  Thoughts?

I'm going to try and fumble my way through this explanation, so bear with me.  The top cowl is refered to as the "grill-cowl top".  The struction under this is called the "assy- cowl top outer". 

This "assy-cowl top outer" has a couple of landings, for need of a better term, one at each end on which the "grill-cowl top" rests. 

 

It's been many years since I first removed the original "grill-cowl top" when a tree branch fell on it and needed to be replaced.  As I recall, those landings each had a

,probably, closed cell hard foam rubber pad attached for the "grill-cowl top" to rest on.  I couldn't tell you the thickness of these pads but they were probably about 1/4 to 3/8 inchs thick. 

 

I got the terminology used in this explanation from the club "Z-Car CD ROM". 

 

I'm hoping that there are others who can help either confirm or refute my recall on this, so please chime in.  If you don't have these pads for your cowl to rest on, this may explain

why your cowl sits slightly lower than your fenders.

 

Let me know what you think.

 

Dan

Dan, I think your description of the "grill cowl top" support is correct. Here are a couple of pics showing this (I did an inspection of this area earlier this year). The foam pads on mine are about 3/16" to 1/4" thick and the material is relatively soft.

Mike

The cowl panel has closed cell foam pads on both sides. If your pads are missing then it could help to lift the cowl. Most likely the pads are there but over the years the edges of the cowl panel have been pushed down. People lean on them, rest things there, etc. I'm always working on my race car and rest tools and parts on the cowl They bend very easily.

 

Chuck

I saved the old foam pads.  I'll see if it makes a difference.  Thanks.

Dan, I think your description of the "grill cowl top" support is correct. Here are a couple of pics showing this (I did an inspection of this area earlier this year). The foam pads on mine are about 3/16" to 1/4" thick and the material is relatively soft.

Mike

Cowl Underside IMG_4820.JPGIMG_4821.JPG

Mike, thanks for the great supporting pictures.  Like I said, this old guy is just as sharp as ever, chuckle, chuckle!

 

Is that my decal you have on your master vac, Mike, or is it the original one?

 

Dan

Hey Dan, my decal is still the original, my car is unrestored under the hood. I checked out your thread on this subject

http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/19815-interest-in-master-vac-decal-reproduction/

and I noticed that my label is actually a little different, it doesn't include the patent number and the format is a little different, otherwise very similar.

Here's mine:

Mike

ps: Sorry to Ken for the hi-jack

Edited November 2, 20159 yr by CanTechZ

My plan for panel alignment was to jamb out the doors, hatch, engine bay and under the hood. Then I will do most of the reassembly of the car, drivetrain, lines, harness, much of the interior. then final align all the panels, tape it up and spray the outside. This way I don't have to reassemble the car around fresh paint. Also the yellow I am shooting can look different if you don't lay the same amount down on each panel. So I am leery of painting it apart. My paint shop said they had one customer paint his vette all disassembled and when he put it together, every panel was a little different shade, had to repaint the whole car.

Hey Dan, my decal is still the original, my car is unrestored under the hood. I checked out your thread on this subject

http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/19815-interest-in-master-vac-decal-reproduction/

and I noticed that my label is actually a little different, it doesn't include the patent number and the format is a little different, otherwise very similar.

Here's mine:

1970 Master Vac decal.JPG

Mike

ps: Sorry to Ken for the hi-jack

Mike, nice early '69/'70 decal.  I have never seen one that nice, and would have been tempted to repro that one as well as the later decal.

 

Dan

 

Again, apologies to Ken for the continuing hi-jack but hope the cowl pads do the trick!