Intake Manifold Swap

[Zedyone_kenobi]

I have been fighting with the throttle cable on my Triple Webers for years.  Just never had that perfect OEM feeling the push pull rods gave me (after they were rebuild and in perfect condition mind you) 

 

So Mike W. was kind enough to put me onto the Harada manifold.  This this has all the features I have dreamed of in a manifold. It has a cast in bosses to hold the teflon bearings for the throttle rod. The throttle rod is BEEFY so deflection is not an issue on the middle carb. It comes with a Cable guide that should you want to run a cable should make the throttle feel excellent. It also has a torsion spring on the end that is awesome.  I had drawn up one like this in CAD years ago, but good to see somebody implement it. Most importantly I will be able to use the OEM throttle rods to actuate the things.  I am so happy for this.  I love how they look and I like the OEM nature of them.  Plus they felt sublime on my SU's. 

 

Without further ado, I started tearing it apart today. Also working on the roadster as well.  Pics!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So the progress has been good. Amazing how easy carbs are to get off, when they have been removed like 5 times before. This will be the 3rd time I have swapped manifolds. Meh, what can you do.  Gotta tinker.

[Mike W]

Great progress Steve!!  You are definitely going to like the Harada.  I stuck with the Lokar cable and it now has a perfect return to idle without having to kick my pedal every time. 

 

I was also able to eliminate the dual return springs I was using as a result of the one that is built in.  About the only downside to this was that I had to move my throttle arm mechanism to the opposite side of the carbs as the return spring built into the Harada interfered with forward most carb.  Other than that, and some retuning, it is a definite cut above the Cannon. 

 

Also turns out that the runners on the Harada are about an inch shorter than the Cannon and so I was able to install velocity stacks that had more rounded intakes and were longer than the stock ones that came with the Webers.  I've attached some pictures below for those who might be interested.

 

Looking forward to the finished product.

 

Mike.

 

     

 

  

 

  

 

  

[Zedyone_kenobi]

Pray Tell where did you get those Velocity stacks!

 

I would love some RED ones like that.

and your engine bay is just reeeeeeeediculous!

 

HAHA

 

So beautiful Mike, I know how hard you have worked on that.   Your car is inspirational!

 

I can already see what you are talking about with having to move the throttle arms Mike. Yup.  Will have have to do that as well

 

 

I am going to give the push pull rods a try first.  My car never felt better.  

 

However, if this works as well as I think it will, I will put the standard strength springs back into the webers.  I installed stronger springs to help them return to closed.  But they made my throttle pedal feel like a bowflex.

Edited November 6, 2015 by Zedyone_kenobi

[Mike W]

Steve,

 

When I did the swap I also installed the heavier springs in the Webers directly not knowing if the single spring on the Harada would be sufficient.  Turns out to be a great setup and as you'll see you can adjust the tension of the built in return spring as well so you can get it to feel exactly the way you want it.  The heavier internal springs along with the built in one on the Harada provides a great feel and perfect return to idle.

 

On the air horns, I first tried to procure them from Techno Toy Tuning, but Gabe did not have them in stock and did not know when he was going to manufacture any additional ones.  They would have been a great way to go as they were relatively inexpensive and you can get them in multiple colors (including red).  I ended up going with some from Borla Induction (formerly TWM Induction) and they are a work of art.  They also did not have sufficient stock but I worked directly with their sales person and he was awesome as he had additional ones built for me.  I don't believe that they are offered in different colors but given how accommodating they were, they might just do that for you.  If you want I'd be happy to pass along the info on the contact I worked with there and you can talk to him about what you are looking for.  About the only downside to this solution was the price.  You can find more info about them here:

 

https://www.borlainduction.com/for-weber-carburetors.html

 

BTW I went with the 75 mm versions.  Also Bills B Racing (BBR racing) did the custom air filters as well.  I talked to Bill directly and he was also awesome to work with and in fact was the one who gave me the contact at Borla to work with as well.

 

Hope that helps.  Looking forward to your finished project.  More pictures please!!

 

Mike.

[Zedyone_kenobi]

IT certainly does!

 

did you go with the gasket Harada supplied. It looks far less robust than the Felpro I was using.

[gundee]

This is what I am fighting. Original set up right out of the 1970's.

You can see that the 3 arms and the main rod are all one piece.

No adjustment there.

Your old manifold looks better than this one I have. 

[Zedyone_kenobi]

mmmm Mikuni's!

[Chickenman]

This is what I am fighting. Original set up right out of the 1970's.

You can see that the 3 arms and the main rod are all one piece.

No adjustment there.

Your old manifold looks better than this one I have. 

Oh my..... I think you've got a bit of a rare piece there. That looks like an original Nissan Competition race manifold. I'd hold onto that if I were you... even if you update manifolds. Could be worth some decent $$$ to a collector or Race Car restorer.

 

I would  NOT modify or cut up that linkage!!!

 

Edit: Fuel line ( metal ) looks to be factory Nissan Comp as well. You don't see that often.

Edited November 11, 2015 by Chickenman

[gundee]

Oh my..... I think you've got a bit of a rare piece there. That looks like an original Nissan Competition race manifold. I'd hold onto that if I were you... even if you update manifolds. Could be worth some decent $$$ to a collector or Race Car restorer.

 

I would  NOT modify or cut up that linkage!!!

 

Edit: Fuel line ( metal ) looks to be factory Nissan Comp as well. You don't see that often.

 

Yes, I believe this came direct from what was then called Datsun Competition Department in California.

The guy I purchased this from was a former Factory Datsun Dealership Sales Rep.

Guess you are right. Have to keep this manifold as is.

[Careless]

you can pop the ball-socket style linkages off and put adjustables on all 3 like the one you have on the rear-most carb. that should allow you to tune it a bit better?

[Chickenman]

Yes, I believe this came direct from what was then called Datsun Competition Department in California.

The guy I purchased this from was a former Factory Datsun Dealership Sales Rep.

Guess you are right. Have to keep this manifold as is.

Yep. I worked as a Partsman for a Nissan Dealership in the late 70's / early 80's, that was a distributor for Nissan Comp parts in Canada. I raced Datsuns back then, so heading up our Competition Parts sales was like a dream job to me. It was like Christmas when our competition stock orders came in.

 

Recognized the manifold right away...

[Chickenman]

I use Synthetic Silcone grease on those ball joints. The synthetic does not turn " Waxy " from exhaust heat like regular petroleum grease. Super-Lube from Synco works well. It's good for Plastic and metal. Product #21010. Works great on Slot Car gears as well!!

 

http://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21010-Synthetic-Blistered/dp/B000BXKZQU

 

Edited November 12, 2015 by Chickenman