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Intake Manifold Swap


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I got an 8 point west Texas deer

Most expensive meat in the history of the world LOL

Had a revelation 2 days ago when I was putting the header and intake back on

I have always done this the same way

Put header on then install intake sans carbs

Then install all the nuts on the studs at times contorting my arms in unnatural ways

Then it occurred to me

The two outer bolts and three inner bolts of the header have absolutely nothing to do with the intake

So why not tighten those almost all the way first

Less struggling with getting the washer/lock washer/nut on at crazy angles

This was a revelation to me

It makes it so much easier!

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  • 3 weeks later...

I am happy to report that I finished the intake swap and the OEM push pull rod throttle linkage is working beautifully. The large diameter intake runners seem to have not had a noticeable effect on idle AFR so far.  Also of note, the Harada has completely isolated intake runners.  The cannon connected them all. I have not seen what effect this will have on the brakes yet, but time will tell. 

 

I synced the air flow the carbs far easier than ever before.  Since each cylinder is completely isolated, differences in air flow were able to be individually adjusted. Luckily each carb was flowing identical in each barrel, so all I had to do was to get the air flow to match carb to carb.  I do not think I have had such a nice idle in a while. I have not driven it yet as my roadster is on jackstands blocking in the Z. 

 

NOte to self, never start two projects at the same time...

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  • 2 weeks later...

I am happy to report that I finished the intake swap and the OEM push pull rod throttle linkage is working beautifully. The large diameter intake runners seem to have not had a noticeable effect on idle AFR so far.  Also of note, the Harada has completely isolated intake runners.  The cannon connected them all. I have not seen what effect this will have on the brakes yet, but time will tell. 

 

 

 

The Mikuni intake I have is also all separate runners. The brakes work just as good as with the prior SU's.

I just got new individual adjusters to get a much better carb sync. Have to wait till Spring though now.

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I need to get a new gasket for the firewall.  But took my first drive today. The gas pedal travel is truncated a bit compared to my throttle cable, but the feeling is direct and so smoooooooth.  My throttle cable never felt 'right'.  It worked okay, but it hung up and did not return to zero so to speak so often.  I also after driving with this manifold I think I was only ever getting 75% throttle for the longest time.  I gave her a good romp in first and second, and my car has never revved that hard and that fast ever.  I do not think it was the manifold with it larger runners, but that may have helped. I know my L28 likes the added flow and seems to respond to it immediately if not sooner.  Makes me think DCOE45's would be even better.  But that is another story. Idle is spot on perfect at 1000 rpm and I cannot even feel the engine running. Overall, I am thrilled with this swap.  I also finished my fluid flush on the roadster and fixed an oil leak on the oil pan drain plug on the roadster as well. Overall a Very productive day. Now to kick back, and have  brew, as I have earned it.  

 

Some pics of the stable.

 

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Oh, I picked up a set of genuine Coco mats for the roadster.  They look the business, I think the Z may getting a set soon.

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