2 hours ago, Matthew Abate said:

Suspension looks great! Did you go with flat finish or is it satin. Hard to tell in the photos.


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that is black epoxy and the driveshafts are red disc brake paint

3 hours ago, grannyknot said:

You want to spin the marker lamp lense around 180*, not the whole unit, just the red plastic lense.  The face of the lense should be on the same plane as the door.

it doesnt look like that will work. the front -of-car end is narrower than the rear. i will give it a try tomorrow. it just doesnt look quite right...........

that is black epoxy and the driveshafts are red disc brake paint

I must have misunderstood some else's post about getting the matteness right.

yesterday turned out to be a good day my plan has been to build a L28 block and use the E31 head. i went and bought an engine stand and got the head off. then i found this. this is an E31 block with zero ring ridge and fresh hone marks. my plans have changed, since this is going to save some big $$

now im thinking that ill put bigger valves, cam and springs in the head and just roll with the block. im going to pull the pan and check the bearings today. the head looks good, very clean. it does have the small valves and what looks to be the original cam.

what do you guys think? any ideas?

Edited September 4, 20168 yr by sweatybetty

That's the way I'd do it. Pull a bearing cap and look. If the pan looks that clean I'd run with it. The bottom ends are tough!


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 I agree, if the bearings and crank look good go with it. It was a good day if you made that kind of progress without any broken bolts or studs.

Those pistons indicate that somebody had plans for lots of valve lift and duration.  The head and cam might be interesting.  

That's an externally oiled cam, right? Your spray bar in good shape?

20 hours ago, Mark Maras said:

 I agree, if the bearings and crank look good go with it. It was a good day if you made that kind of progress without any broken bolts or studs.

that is one of the things i was dreading, but not 1 broken bolt or stud i am going to replace them all though

12 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

That's an externally oiled cam, right? Your spray bar in good shape?

the 2 short end pieces are a little loose in their sockets, but i think i can braze them. other than that, it looks like new

turned out to be another good, productive day. the whole bottom end is new. all the rod and main bearings are new, but still standard size. i miked all of them, and used some plastic gauge, everything checks out within tolerances. im debating a new set of bearings since its all apart, but they look fine.

pistons right out of the block before cleaning

block washed inside and out and ready for paint

even water jackets are clean.

primed and painted

 

20 hours ago, Zed Head said:

Those pistons indicate that somebody had plans for lots of valve lift and duration.  The head and cam might be interesting.  

did stock pistons have a valve relief? i measured the lift at the valve and came up with .433 which is what my haynes manual says is factory lift. id like to jump up closer to .500 but am worried about valve-piston interference. do you think these would work with a higher lift cam?