sweatybetty Posted January 30, 2017 Author Share #217 Posted January 30, 2017 (edited) another thing that makes a world of difference in noise, you can see it in the 2nd picture, i used body seam sealer in that gap where the black and red meet. it glues the 2 parts together stopping rattles. i also did this inside the doors between the "crash bar" and outer skin. the doors sound very solid now Edited January 30, 2017 by sweatybetty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Abate Posted February 4, 2017 Share #218 Posted February 4, 2017 another thing that makes a world of difference in noise, you can see it in the 2nd picture, i used body seam sealer in that gap where the black and red meet. it glues the 2 parts together stopping rattles. i also did this inside the doors between the "crash bar" and outer skin. the doors sound very solid nowDoes that go on top of primer or under it? I've never applied my own and I won't be painting the car myself, so if I can lay it down after I strip the car, great, otherwise I would have to get the car back from the painter to do it or have them do it for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweatybetty Posted February 5, 2017 Author Share #219 Posted February 5, 2017 6 hours ago, Matthew Abate said: Does that go on top of primer or under it? I've never applied my own and I won't be painting the car myself, so if I can lay it down after I strip the car, great, otherwise I would have to get the car back from the painter to do it or have them do it for me. either way, as long as the surface is clean. that makes for a good bond. i did it after sandblasting, between the epoxy coat and primer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweatybetty Posted February 5, 2017 Author Share #220 Posted February 5, 2017 getting a little more color on. here is the hatch after a 2nd coat of clear, and cut and buffed. i am getting quite a bit of dust in the clear coat, so i end up sanding down with 1500 then 2000, then rubbing compound and polishing compound. looks very nice hatch after sanding, cut and buff installed passengers door ready for the 2nd coat of clear, which just got sprayed tonight.i should have it cut and buffed tomorrow 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heyitsrama Posted February 5, 2017 Share #221 Posted February 5, 2017 Yo sweaty, where did you get that sick inline coolant temp sender? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweatybetty Posted February 5, 2017 Author Share #222 Posted February 5, 2017 5 hours ago, heyitsrama said: Yo sweaty, where did you get that sick inline coolant temp sender? that is a copper pipe coupling with the brass fittings brazed on. one fitting is for the temperature gauge, and the other controls the electric fans Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patcon Posted February 5, 2017 Share #223 Posted February 5, 2017 (edited) The paint work looks great! Cutting and buffing really makes it pop. Lot's of work but the results are outstanding... You're almost over the hump...all downhill after paint Edited February 5, 2017 by Patcon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heyitsrama Posted February 8, 2017 Share #224 Posted February 8, 2017 On 2/5/2017 at 8:15 AM, sweatybetty said: that is a copper pipe coupling with the brass fittings brazed on. one fitting is for the temperature gauge, and the other controls the electric fans I'm looking at some from McMaster-Car, it appears they have them in 1-1/4 in which measured to be close to the hose that Im using in my car. Part number 5520k206 on https://www.mcmaster.com/#solder-joint-tube-couplings/=169agse seems to fit the correct size, but it's only rated to 200*f, the thermostat runs 185, and its technically after the radiator, so it seems that it wont see temps, that high..... Any opinion regarding this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweatybetty Posted February 8, 2017 Author Share #225 Posted February 8, 2017 56 minutes ago, heyitsrama said: I'm looking at some from McMaster-Car, it appears they have them in 1-1/4 in which measured to be close to the hose that Im using in my car. Part number 5520k206 on https://www.mcmaster.com/#solder-joint-tube-couplings/=169agse seems to fit the correct size, but it's only rated to 200*f, the thermostat runs 185, and its technically after the radiator, so it seems that it wont see temps, that high..... Any opinion regarding this? i think the 200 degrees is referring to the solder commonly used for household plumbing. i used silver-solder for mine. i cant recall the melting point, but it is WAY above anything your car will ever see Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweatybetty Posted March 13, 2017 Author Share #226 Posted March 13, 2017 Warm weather is coming so ive been concentrating on paint before the bugs come back. As of today, all i have left to paint is the cowl and air dam. Ordered a MSA exhaust system today, hoping to have the pig running by the end of next week. Im waiting to put the front end on until the engine is done so i dont scratch the fenders. Here are a few pics lf fender rf fender inspection covers and gas filler headlight scoops also got the passenger side door (3rd one) painted and hung today. it lines up very nice. glass will go in tomorrow and the rear hatch installed 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grannyknot Posted March 13, 2017 Share #227 Posted March 13, 2017 Sweet! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheee! Posted March 13, 2017 Share #228 Posted March 13, 2017 Inspirational as I head into paint and body... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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