hello all! things have slowed a bit, but i have gotten quite a bit done. ordered and installed the lower quarters and the center section above the tail lights. i bought these parts from tabco, and they did need trimming for a good fit. all in all, they fit ok. im just about done with the body work and should have another coat of epoxy and then primer by next weekend.

thanks all    sb

 

rear hatch piece. this was a pita to get fit correctly

 

 

lower quarter before

 

 

and after

 

 

and all smoothed out

 

Edited December 27, 20159 yr by sweatybetty

well it has been a while since i posted anything, but i have gotten quite a bit done. the body and doors are ready for paint. i hope to have that done in the next couple of weeks before the weather warms up and the bugs come out

 

all bodywork done, and black epoxy applied before primer and blocking

 

 

primer over black epoxy

block sanding. the darker area is guide-cote by 3M. it leaves a dark spot in any low spot while sanding. those few spots get filled with glazing putty and re-sanded

 

new battery tray all welded up

cowl area rubber sealed. there wasnt any rust here but this stuff will seal against any leaks

Edited February 27, 20169 yr by sweatybetty

Looks really good! What is the product you used in the cowl area?

http://www.tremcosealants.com/products/vulkem-801.aspx

basically liquid rubber.

That looks like pretty tough stuff, used in some pretty demanding applications...

i would be concerned that a thick coating could hide rust or trapped water - if for example there's a pinhole or edge gap and water gets under it, or the paint it's applied over lifts/fails and water is able to get under it at the perimeter, allowing it to wick water in - then this area would never dry out, making the rust worse. kind of like the issue folks have with undercoating. the material itself is quite durable and shouldn't pose any issues of leaking, it's really just the edge where the "rubber meets the rust" that i would be careful, especially in a zone that is hidden under the cowl.

headlight surrounds (fiberglass) repaired and epoxied. they both had several cracks and the lh side mounting holes were broken.

On 2/28/2016 at 9:09 AM, rossiz said:

i would be concerned that a thick coating could hide rust or trapped water - if for example there's a pinhole or edge gap and water gets under it, or the paint it's applied over lifts/fails and water is able to get under it at the perimeter, allowing it to wick water in - then this area would never dry out, making the rust worse. kind of like the issue folks have with undercoating. the material itself is quite durable and shouldn't pose any issues of leaking, it's really just the edge where the "rubber meets the rust" that i would be careful, especially in a zone that is hidden under the cowl.

im not concerned with that happening in my lifetime anyways. the sandblaster did a great job on the cowl. it was free of paint and rust, leaving a fairly rough surface, perfect for this stuff to adhere to. i can pretty much guarantee it will never fail or rust. we use this stuff at work for sealing metal roof penetrations and have yet to see it fail when properly applied.

Edited March 2, 20169 yr by sweatybetty

Great work Sweaty!  Thank you for all the details and the pictures.  It is builds like these that keep us all motivated on our own projects.

the weather here is still holding out on the cold, wet side. perfect for painting. i have only painted 1 other car before, and that was with single stage paint. this is a base-clear, so it is a kind of practice session, so i decided to do the engine bay first. the base went on a bit dry, so there is some orange peel. over-all i am pleased. the body comes next week-end.

base coat before clear

after clear (sorry for the blurry pic)

Nice and shiny, love it. What color Red is that?

Very nice! Did you stand in the engine bay to get all the nooks and crannies or just lean in? So many hidden areas I am concerned on getting good coverage when I do mine.