zKars Posted November 8, 2015 Share #1 Posted November 8, 2015 What say you good Z'ers? When putting in a new clutch, what is your SOP on the flywheel resurfacing? Wet sand with Silcon carbide paper till deglazed? Always take in for a skim resurface to local rebuilder? Don't bother? Share your experience. Yes, I admit it, this is a silly question is based on being cheap, and in a hurry to get a clutch swap done in one go without a day or two "in the shop" waiting for a proper skim to get done.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted November 9, 2015 Share #2 Posted November 9, 2015 Monroe describes looking for heat-checking, and sanding and cleaning if there is none and the surface is flat. It worked for me. If you use a hard block when you sand, the sanding pattern will give you a good idea of the quality of the surface. A good consistent pattern can only be achieved on a flat, non-heat-checked surface. I like to use a flashlight behind my straight edge to see how flat a surface is. Just a trick that works. My first flywheel had a visible wear pattern shown by a straight edge. I sanded it and used it anyway and it gave me chattering problems when it got hot. I don't know if the it was the flywheel or the clutch. It was a Zoom Perfection clutch kit. My second one was perfectly flat by straightedge and worked fine after sanding and cleaning, with a new, different brand, clutch kit. Rhinopac brand. I like to experiment though so take that in to account. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kurbycar32 Posted November 9, 2015 Share #3 Posted November 9, 2015 Unless using a new flywheel i always drop mine off at a machine shop for resurfacing. The last time i did one it cost about 40 bucks, that's not worth my time to mess with trying to do it myself with sandpaper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeonV Posted November 9, 2015 Share #4 Posted November 9, 2015 I was in a similar situation with the last Z clutch I did. The flywheel looked great, like a brake rotor. I lightly sanded the surface with some medium grit sandpaper with a flat stone backing. No issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zKars Posted November 9, 2015 Author Share #5 Posted November 9, 2015 Great advice all, thanks!123100-P0100 flywheels are hard to find. Rock auto only lists 2+2 flywheels (20 mm) . Ebay has nothing. Clutch kits come up with nothing that includes a flywheel, where as only a few years ago, there were none. Don't really want a Fidenza alloy flywheel. Well I do, but not at the current exchange rates! Anyone with a source? I'm fresh out of used ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted November 9, 2015 Share #6 Posted November 9, 2015 It's been noted before that the 225 mm stock flywheels aren't available. I know a local shop that had a few in inventory a while back. Somebody on eBay might have one. But apparently nobody is casting them anymore. One more NLA part. I have a small collection of used ones that I think will last me. You might try the wrecking yards for used. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kurbycar32 Posted November 9, 2015 Share #7 Posted November 9, 2015 i have a used 225mm flywheel lying around here. i ordered it for my car when the seller listed it as a 240mm unit and got stuck with it because shipping was more expensive than the part. you referenced part numbers and i think you may have been implying the lightweight "frisbee" maxima flywheels, i was completely unable to find one this last summer. Also beware that there are some part numbers floating around for a fidanza steel wheel, these are totally off the market and NLA. I ended up with a 240mm fidanza aluminium unit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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