Eastwood Chassis Black...

[siteunseen]

...sucks, don't buy it if you're wanting paint. It's like putting latex over oil.

I sprayed my oil pan over a week ago and it looked fantastic. Bead blasted to bare metal then primed with Duplicolor 500 degree engine block primer. Two light coats followed by a medium coat.

This morning I go to put the pan on, blew the dust off and sheets the size of my hand came off with air gun. Now I've got it back bare metal and am going to paint the pan Duplicolor Pontiac Blue to match the block. I don't want a black oil pan. That be like blood colored band aids.

[wheee!]

Did the Chassis Black come off WITH the primer or just the Chassis BlacK? Sounds like an issue with time between coats (tack) or possibly contaminated surface (on the primer).

[siteunseen]

It didn't bond with the primer. I've painted a lot of stuff in my life and this is a first. The only time something like this was when I put semi gloss latex on an oil painted door at a friends place. It's like a bonding agent is missing and I do lightly sand between coats.

It's all over with and nice and slick now so I was venting earlier, leaving bad feedback on our forum too.

[Mike W]

I meant to respond to this earlier, but I guess the holidays and such got in the way.

 

In any case, I have used the Eastwood Satin Chassis Black with extremely good results.  It was used on literally all of my suspension components, engine bay hardware, and other various pieces in the car.  I was initially very concerned about how it would hold up on the suspension given the extreme conditions that area of the car can be subjected to.  However, I have been pleasantly surprised on how well it has done.  I find it gets dirty but usually can be cleaned with some spray cleaner and a damp towel.  A few dings here and there from rocks, but that's about it.

 

However I will also say that in 100% of the parts and pieces that I used the Eastwood paint on, I also used Eastwood rust inhibitor / primer.  I don't know if that might have made a difference, but so far I have not had the issues that site listed above.  I would also add that the rust inhibitor was very very easy to use and also very forgiving.  The chassis black took more time to get used to and was subject to drips more easily.  I also found that he final coat needed to be fairly heavy so as to create a smoother satiny look (kind of like powder coat).  It did take some getting used to but my results have been quite good.

 

Finally, at least in the research that I have done, there are some compatibility issues between paint types that can cause issues.  There is some combination of acrylic primer/paint and lacquer primer/paint that doesn't work although I cannot remember which of them is the problem combination.  I do recall downloading an article about this from one of the big consumer paint providers (like rust-o-leum) that detailed the problem.  I will see if I can locate that and will post if I do.

 

Mike.

[Mike W]

OK.  First my mistake.  It is not acrylic and lacquer, but enamel and lacquer.

 

I did find the article and will post it below. 

 

There are 2 primary issues that duplicolor brings up.

 

The first is recoat window.  Enamel paint apparently has a recoat window meaning that any additional coat must be applied within a specified period of time (usually 10's of minutes) after which you must wait until the prior coat is fully cured, which usually takes about a week.

 

The second is compatibility of paint types.  You cannot use lacquer over enamel. 

 

Although this was written by Duplicolor, I believe this is fairly generic to paints in general.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Mike.

 

Duplicolor Paint Tips.pdf

[siteunseen]

Thank you Mike for your reply.  I didn't use their rust inhibitive primer, I guess that was the problem?  The other thing I didn't like about the chassis paint was the viscosity of it, they thin it themselves so it's like buying pre mixed antifreeze (you're paying for a half gallon of water).  I buy a quart of paint and I get a half of a quart of paint and a the other half is thinner.

 

I've always been confused by the term enamel, is it not a term for the sheen of all paint?  I've used latex/acrylic enamel and oil based enamel.  Both have a low sheen finish.  Hocus pocus advertising. 

 

Now lacquer is a different animal altogether, I stay away from that, it's for the pros to lay down.