Zed Head Posted November 30, 2015 Share #25 Posted November 30, 2015 If you decide to go to a shop I would go to a Z car shop, not a frame shop. There are so many modern mechanics and professionals that don't understand these cars, and do actual damage just trying to lift them to take a look, it's not funny. Plus if you get the wrong one, you can get spun down a trail of expensive attempts, with no solution, before you realize the guy knows less than you do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patcon Posted November 30, 2015 Share #26 Posted November 30, 2015 Zed replied while I was typing. My first concern wouldn't been paint cracks from the frame rack. First I would want the chassis as straight as I could make it. Secondly most paints are flexible enough and even filler is usually flexible enough to absorb the changes in chassis shape from the frame rack. Of the 40 or so cars I have seen run over the frame rack, I don't I have ever seen the paint crack on one when pulled. Even seriously caved fenders... the bigger issue would be marks from the hold down jaws and puller clamps... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Mann Posted November 30, 2015 Author Share #27 Posted November 30, 2015 If that is all that should control height than I should be able to put a level on the 2 strut towers on the inside of the car and they should be level. correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted November 30, 2015 Share #28 Posted November 30, 2015 You might doublecheck your springs also. Front and back spring rates are different, but the springs tend to look similar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted November 30, 2015 Share #29 Posted November 30, 2015 (edited) If that is all that should control height than I should be able to put a level on the 2 strut towers on the inside of the car and they should be level. correct?I actually have a slight difference side-to-side on my car. I've pondered all of this stuff before. I think that my spring rates, used springs, are different. But, your idea is a good one. Get the strut tower tops level, with the car on a level surface, then measure distance to the ground on each fender well. The suspension mounting points should be level when the car body is. If the strut tops are level, you should get matching numbers from each side of the car. Maybe you have mismatched tires? Who knows. Edited November 30, 2015 by Zed Head Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patcon Posted November 30, 2015 Share #30 Posted November 30, 2015 You could take it to a Z shop if you have one, but it looks like Murray, IA has a population of about 1000 people and is located somewhere just the other side of "you can't get there from here" So with that in mind you probably know everyone in town and have 1 maybe 2 body shops. Have someone put it on a frame rack for you. There is a diagram floating around here somewhere that has the factory dimension in MM's of the chassis (maybe someone will post it up for me). Have them setup up, clamp it down and check it real quick. You could also follow Zed's logic and measure the free length of each rear strut with the rear end off the ground. Measure from the bottom of one strut to the inside of the strut tower on each side. They should match pretty close. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Mann Posted November 30, 2015 Author Share #31 Posted November 30, 2015 I just went out and placed the level across the strut towers in the rear hatch and there is a 1-1/4" difference. I raised the car and the distance is from tire to fender is 1-1/8" less on the passenger side. But on the floor there is a 2-1/2" difference. does that tell you anything? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted November 30, 2015 Share #32 Posted November 30, 2015 I'm not sure what numbers were measured when, in your post. Can't tell. If you use the scissors jack that comes with the car you can raise one side until the strut towers are level. Then measure from the top of the fender wells to the ground Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted November 30, 2015 Share #33 Posted November 30, 2015 If you get the car level, and the measurements of the fender wells are close/same, then you can focus on the struts. If you find a big difference in strut tower to fender well relationships then some substantial body work has been done in the past. then the frame shop comes in to play. Just trying to separate body problems from suspension component problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Mann Posted November 30, 2015 Author Share #34 Posted November 30, 2015 Springs are brand new and clearly labeled. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic20c01/23-4041 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Mann Posted November 30, 2015 Author Share #35 Posted November 30, 2015 I raised the car off the ground with the jack then checked level between sturt towers and measured fender clearance. I then lowered it to the ground and checked fender clearance again. Sorry I didn't explain better. Thank you for your patience Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted November 30, 2015 Share #36 Posted November 30, 2015 Sorry, it might just be me but I don't get a picture of what you did. You checked the level but don't say if it was level or not. You took some measurements but not clear when or exactly where. Sorry, not getting it. If you could put things in the terms of "the strut towers were level and the measurement on the driver's side fender was X, the measurement on the passenger side fender was Y", that would make sense. Or "the fenders were even height but the strut towers were X on one end and Y on the other". Something needs to be level though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parman
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